Nestled in the middle of a quiet neighbourhood dominated by Art Deco buildings is a little Tanjore door, eagerly awaiting to reveal the burst of flavours of the world inside. So, on a pleasant afternoon, we step in as customers at Gughan, whose subhead reads Supreme South Indian Veg Cuisine. The restaurant is fairly occupied, and we're seated near a group of women who are as excited as us to try out the menu. "Don't you have a branch in the surburbs?" they question a member of the waiting staff, who gives them a cheeky reply, "No ma'am, the nearest branch is in Madurai!"

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