Aromatic tidings

Vishu of abundanceFor chef Marina Balakrishnan who dishes out lavish meals from Malabar under Oottupura the abundance of vibrant yellow konnapoo cassia fistula flowers marks the onset of Vishu the first day of the Malayalam calendar ldquoJars of inji puli imli relish and kanni manga tender mango achar would be prepared weeks in advance The grating sounds of fresh coconut never stopped The aroma of cardamom jackfruit and mangoes wafted aboutrdquo she shares The day before Vishu her grandmother would start decking the Vishu Kani ldquoKani means that which is seen first at the start of the day itrsquos a sign of abundance Lord Krishna is adorned with flowers and jewellery and an uruli or vessel of kani is kept before the deityrdquo she explains Itrsquos going to be a quieter Vishu this year but its essence will be felt as at Oottupura she has dedicated the month to sadyasPal ada payasamIngredientsgtgt 2 l milk gtgt 150 gada red ricegtgt 15 cups sugar gtgt 1 tsp cardamom powder gtgt 1 l waterMethodDrop ada into boiling water and switch off the flame Let it sit in the hot water for 15 minutes Strain the excess water and wash the ada under cold water let it remain in the strainer Boil the milk on medium flame keep stirring Reduce it to about 15 l and add half the sugar Keep stirring Tip in the ada and continue stirring Now pour in the remaining sugar and stir the milk until it bears a slightly thicker consistency The milk would turn into a lovely light pink Add the cardamom powder Serve hot or coldSweet beginningsBaisakhi chef and consultant Reetu Uday Kugaji tells us is not just the beginning of the new year for Sikhs and Punjabis but is also a harvest festival Apart from kirtans new clothes and Guru da langars a host of traditional recipes like meethe peeley chawal kesari phirni pindi chole and Amritsari meethi pedewali lassi signalled Baisakhi ldquoMy fondest memory is of my mother preparing kada prashad and its aroma in the house Even after eating it at home when we visited the gurudwara Irsquod help myself to several helpings like a childrdquo she recalls At home this year the chef plans to pray and cook ldquoIrsquoll also distribute fruits food and groceries among the underprivileged by following all COVID19 protocolsrdquoGud da halwaIngredientsgtgt 34 cup semolina gtgt 14 cup besangtgt 12 cup desi ghee gtgt 14 tbsp almonds slivered gtgt 14 tbsp melon seedsFor the syrup and clarificationgtgt 4 cups water gtgt 34 cup jaggery gtgt 14 tbsp milk gtgt 14 m muslin clothFor the garnishgtgt 12 tbsp mixed nuts sliveredchopped pound Edible rose budsMethodIn a saucepan bring jaggery and water to a boil while stirring it Tip in some milk You will find the dirt on the top of the syrup Remove the froth with the help of a round spoon Once the syrup thickens strain it through a muslin cloth Heat ghee add semolina and besan Over a medium flame let it cook while stirring it Once it turns light golden and you can smell the cooked semolina and besan sprinkle the almonds and melon seeds Let it cook for a few seconds Add the syrup and stir continuously till it thickens Serve the halwa hot with the garnishNotes from AssamOf the three Bihus Rongali Bihu is the biggest celebration as it marks the new year for Assam notes Assamese chef and consultant Gitika Saikia The chef who grew up in Dibrugarh district remembers going to her fatherrsquos village on Rongali Bihu ldquoRed henrsquos eggs are a must on the first day We play this game to find whose eggs arenrsquot breaking Then we make a stir fry called amlori tup aru koni bhoja Wersquore also supposed to eat a sabzi made of 100plus seasonal veggiesrdquo she shares A tradition she continues to follow to this day with her son in Mumbai is taking a bath of haldi paste and black urad dal paste ldquoWe also make different kinds of pitha kumol chaul a type of rice tita phulor khar bitter flower curry a lot of duck and pork dishes and homebrewed rice wine hazrdquo she explainsPumpkin with chicken and bamboo shootIngredientsgtgt 500 g chickengtgt 250 g pumpkin gtgt 1 tbsp bamboo shoot gtgt 1 oniongtgt1 tbsp gingergarlic paste gtgtGreen chillies and dry red chillies to taste gtgtSalt turmeric cumin powder to taste gtgt1 tsp black pepper powder gtgt2 tbsp mustard oilMethodHeat a kadhai pour oil and saute sliced onions and gingergarlic paste till brown Add chicken and cook till juices are released seven minutes Add pumpkin cubes bamboo shoot and some cumin powder and slowcook for another 15 minutes Splash some water if you wish and cover and cook Stir occasionally and cook till done Mix in pepper powder Serve hot with riceOn puranpoli dutySitting down with all her cousins to churn the puran for puranpoli at her grandmotherrsquos house during Gudi Padva is Malwani home chef Ruchi Jayantilal Sonirsquos fondest memory It was also compulsory to eat a bitter chutney made of neem leaves and jeera she adds ldquoAfter the puja for lunch we kids would fetch banana leaves and be served the food There would be puranpoli with milk and with kata chi amti a sweet and sour recipe with the puran Therersquod also be varan bhaat vade spicy black peas curry a seasonal sabzi or some kind of leafy greens and definitely some sol kadhirdquo reminisces Ruchi who runs a Malwani food venture called Baraa Maa with her mother ShobhaKata chi amtiIngredients12 cup puran mixture12 tbsp tamarind pulpMalwani masala as per taste14 cup coconut2 onions2inch gingerTurmericCoriander 1 cup water10 garlic clovesMustardCuminHingCurry leaves MethodThis curry is made in three parts First for the coconut masala heat oil and add two sliced onions Let it turn dark brown along with five garlic cloves Then add sliced ginger and fresh coconut Sauteacute till all turn brown but doesnrsquot burn add fresh coriander and blend Set aside For the puran mixture cook together 14 cup boiled chana dal and 14 cup grated jaggery on a low flame till thick and set aside Now heat oil in a kadhai Make a tadka of mustard jeera curry leaves hing and turmeric Add the coconut masala puran mixture salt tamarind pulp Malwani masala and water Bring it to simmer adjust the seasoning as per your taste and serve with warm puranpolis topped with ghee