Gaggan Anand, the chef behind progressive Indian restaurant Gaggan in Bangkok, is in a chatty mood when we meet him at San-Qi at the Four Seasons, where he is collaborating with a team led by Anshuman Bali, to create a special pop-up breakfast, served to select guests over three days.
At one station, idli batter is being churned before it is baked and topped with sambhar foam and chutney. At another, boiled aloo stuffed with green chutney mousse is tossed into a charcoal batter to make ebony hued vadas. “The inspiration for this,” says Anand, “was the vada pav sold outside Mithibai College.”