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Meat the makers

As the humble Goa sausage becomes the subject of research and aims for a GI tag, experts share the elaborate art and craft of making the smoked, tangy and spicy flavour bombs

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Isabella Fernandes preps rosary bead sausages

Isabella Fernandes preps rosary bead sausages

Abishai Fernandez's childhood memories are spiked with the heady aroma of the Goa sausage (and not "Goan sausage") that his grandmother would make at their Mumbai home. Made from scratch over six days, the sausages packed intense flavour in the chilli fry, pulao, feijoada and roulade.

"Sausage-making is fun but a tedious art. We got it right after several failed attempts, and a lot of meat being wasted," admits Fernandez, 35, who follows the family recipe and sells on order. He's one of the few Goa sausage-makers in Mumbai. Otherwise, the Goa sausages — available at cold storages, with vendors outside local churches and on restaurant menus — are largely sourced from the sunshine state.

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