Momo needs makeover

Food AuthenticPackaging Not aptAccess EasyCost BudgetVerdictA small momo stall on the banks of the Teesta river en route to Darjeeling was a favourite for travellers to get some respite from the long drive ahead What made it special was the vegetarian momos served thereHomemade juicy and spicy with just the right amount of filling encased in paperthin shells it made even hardcore nonvegetarians who swore by authentic buff or pork momos from the region turn into believers Though the stall shut shop four years ago a taste of the vegetarian momos by the readytoeat variant by Prasuma Momos that hit shelves across Mumbai earlier this week make us believe theyrsquove got their hands on the recipe They also have frozen optionsThe recipe from Nepal has been passed down the Suwal family who entered the food business in 1985 Now headed by founder Mahendra P Suwalrsquos daughter Lisa Suwal who grew up savouring homemade momos at every family occasion it was requests by friends to pack up a few plates of the dish that made her launch the readytoeat variantsldquoEveryone would just wait for the hot momos being prepared in the maktu steamer Soupy dumplings in China to the gyoza Japanese dumplings I always thought my grandmotherrsquos recipe was specialrdquo she tells us when we reach out to her after wersquove done our round of tasting Which explains the authenticity of flavour though we found the momos lacked juicyness that results in a burst of flavours with each bite Itrsquos a tricky dish to serve readytocookThough they have different types of heating methods allotted on the packaging it takes some trial and error to get it right You canrsquot just pop them in the microwave But at this price itrsquos the best you can get in a city where yoursquore served six pieces of the dish for 400Cost Pack of 10 Rs 150 frozen and Rs 175 readytoeat onwardsAt Leading supermarts and online storesVegetarianComprising onions garlic herbs and some carrots the flavours are spot on and the momos are surprisingly slurpy We wolf them down without the dip that comes encased in the pack but hit a bump while heating it up as the packaging melts in the microwaveChickenThe chicken filling had some herbs added to it which works in the absence of the perfect dip But we hit rock bottom with the casing which though thin is quite thick at the seam And hence it stays uncooked if you microwave it If you overheat it the filling dries up which we learn the hard way Literally Some more filling would help give a thinner seam Or you can simply trim it before heatingPorkWe like that theyrsquove kept the pork filling basic mdash with onion and meat mdash which doesnrsquot distract from the essence of the dish But what does take away from it is the chutney which is more like a mild Tabasco sauce though they tell us they have only used tomato garlic ginger and spices It lacks the zing that brings the combination to life and tastes nothing like the original tomato and chilli chutneySpicy chicken friedKeen to sample a wellcooked version we take a batch home In the absence of a steamer we place it base first on a pan with some oil and fry it till the bottom starts turning golden We carefully pour two spoons of water in the hot pan and cover it The momos start swelling up within four minutes after which you can fry it more if you want or eat as is The spicy chicken was juicier than the rest due to this technique but the filling wasnrsquot spicy with just regular masala We arenrsquot complaining though45 Exceptional 35 Excellent 25 very Good 15 Good 055 Average Prasuma Momos didnrsquot know we had ordered The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for mealsCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates