Food: Find out if Mumbai's first Aussie eatery is worth a visit

Grilled Tasmanian ScallopsWHEN you step into Estella the newest luxury dining space in the city it feels like youre leaving behind the chaotic mess that is Mumbai and stepping right onto a sunny beach in Australia with the crashing waves and salttinged air for company The restaurant which serves modern Australian cuisine is the newest venture by Silver Beach Entertainment and Hospitality which also runs Silver Beach Cafe Nom Nom and Radio BarThe continent down under has always captivated the fancy of Indians but more so after the explosion of the Masterchef Australia series So when we got an invite to visit Estella we thought it would be interesting to ask the Deputy Consul General of Australia Joanne Lovejoy to join us for dinner and give us insight into the cuisineAbove Chef Rohan DrsquoSouza right chats with Deputy Consul General of Australia Joanne Lovejoy and the reporterThe first thing she noticed she shares is that the seafacing space mdash all clean lines and wood accents mdash has been designed to resemble a beachside bistro taking her back to the Australian coastHaving been in Mumbai for 14 months Lovejoy misses the food of her homeland Ive tried cooking here but because of the difference in the taste of the produce or due to its unavailability the dishes never turn out quite right she says Melting potWe order our drinks mdash Sangria for Lovejoy and Champagne Margarita for us mdash and get to perusing the food menu However owing to the ambientyetdim lighting in the space we end up using our cellphone flashlights to read the menuBlueberry and lavender vienOur orders placed we get back to our conversation Its difficult to nail the definition of modern Australian cuisine Lovejoy tells us The fare is a mix of influences drawing from indigenous as well as Asian flavours There are fewer rules when it comes to what goes in it she adds This has given chef Rohan DSouza who helms the kitchen at Estella ample room to play around with flavours and pairings As expected the menu is seafoodheavy but also features proteins such as chicken and lambOur first appetiser the Grilled Tasmanian Scallops Rs 850 come lightly coated in a miso honey cream and topped with carrot foam Although the combination sounds horrifying in theory DSouza manages to let the freshness of the scallops shine with the miso and honey lifting the dish The other appetisers although good dont quite match up to this one The Pan Flashed Chicken and Wild Mushroom Chicken Bites Rs 550 mdash unremarkable chicken patties mdash are paired with a lovely cherry tomato goat cheese compoteWe pick four mains and yet again its the first one we end up liking the most The John Dory Rs 1100 is panflashed and treated with little else letting the freshness of the fish speak for the dish The Cauliflower and Blue Cheese Cannelloni R850 impresses with a cheesy punch coming through in bursts The Baked Mud Crab and Ricotta Rs 1650 would have been a winner if it wasnt for the overcooked risotto that came with itAmong the desserts the Blueberry and Lavender Viennese Shortbread with Rose Petal Pannacotta Rs 575 centre pic gets our vote for its subtle floral overtonesOverall verdictEstella has the first mover advantage being the only restaurant in the city serving this cuisine and Lovejoy believes it will do well with an expat clientele DSouza mdash who we believe is an underrated chef mdash has done his research ensuring the food comes as close as possible to the real dealThe island bar on the deck PicShadab KhanWhen we ask Lovejoy if shed make the trek all the way from her home in South Mumbai to Juhu she says I would because there is a sense of familiarity to the place For an hour or two I get to pretend Im back in Australia