Mumbai Food: New Lower Parel eatery offers Mexican fare, that goes beyond nachos

Barbacoa de Chivo PicsPradeep DhivarAll you need to get the party started is a good guacamole and margarita chuckles chef Scott Linquist as he scoops the flesh out of an avocado and tosses it in a mortar along with chopped onion tomato sea salt and a dash of lime juice to whip up Xicos Famous Guacamole right at our table Fresh creamy and rustic the dip Rs 650 served with warm and crisp tortillas momentarily transports us to a Mexican carnival replete with the sounds of drums saxophones and trombonesAs if on cue Five Finger Death Punch Margarita Rs 650 appears before us Though its still lunch hour were ready to start the party as we soak in the summery fruity notes in the tequila concoction laced with orange juice and honey agave syrup The glass is rimmed with a Bengali panch phoron spice mix adding a desi twist to the margaritaFive Finger Death Punch MargaritaChilli feverHowever thats the only Indian connect besides the owners the guys behind Versova restaurant Trikaya which youll find at Xico pronounced Zico Kamala Mills latest entrant that opens next month The 69seater restaurant with kitschy Aztec print walls and pop yellow sofas ropes in the expertise of Linquist to offer contemporary Mexican fare which goes beyond nachos and burritos and uses a variety of imported Mexican chillies and cheeses made inhouseIn Mexican cuisine chillies not only increase the spice levels but also add flavour For instance theres a chilli with fruity notes informs the Miamibased chef who comes armed with 20 years of experience in Mexican cooking including stints at COYO Taco and the NYC hot spot Dos CaminosPastel Tres LechesCorny talkWe start with Cochinita Pibil Gordita Rs 525 starring maize flour pockets stuffed with slowroasted pork pickled onions and cojita cheese made inhouse Were told the Mexicans usually marinate a whole pig and roast it overnight in a hole dug in the ground In a restaurantkitchen setting Linquist has adapted this technique to wrap the pork in a banana leaf and roast it for 12 hours in an oven The result extremely tender shreds of meat packed with smoked spicy flavours They cut through the grainy texture of gordita with a distinct taste of freshly ground corn The onion crescents add a tangy aftertaste while the cheese offers a crumbly fetalike effect to the dishCochinita Pibil GorditaWe move on to Pescado Tacos Rs 650 comprising barrels of beer batterfried basa fish topped with crunchy cabbage slaw roasted garlic aioli and pieces of avocado encased in soft and fluffy tortillas We can taste the malt flavour of beer in the coating which elevates the tacosTres deliciousFrom a variety of large plates we try Barbacoa de Chivo Rs 795 where the savoury fallingoffthefork strips of mutton are slowcooked in a sweet and vinegary jus They arrive on a bed of starchy roasted baby potatoes and are accompanied by salsa borracha a delightful smoked chilli dip with a hint of sweetness from roasted pineapple We mop up the dish with soft tortillas which makes for a hearty mealChef Scott Linquist makes fresh guacamoleThough satiated we cannot resist Pastel Tres Leches Rs 450 where a milky vanilla sponge cake that melts in the mouth is layered with tangysweet strawberry compote and whipped cream It is studded with almond slivers If this isnt a heady trip to Mexico what isOPENS ON October 3 7 pm to 130 amAT Gate No 4 Kamala Mills Lower ParelCALL 24978910