Mumbai Food: Opera House Cafe dares to go beyond the tested formula

The first time we visited Botanica on a rainsoaked night in June the allveg restaurant near Opera House was three days old The expansive menu with a mix of Mexican Italian European Asian and modern Indian dishes think cottage cheese sushi burgers and makhni ravioli had taken us by surprise The neighbourhood it is located in has quite a few pure vegetarian restaurants most of them being decadesold establishments serving either GujaratiRajasthani fare or continental dishes like nachos and sizzlersExotic KolhapuriSo whether the menu remains as vast is the first litmus test we apply to the casual dining space when we revisit it this time on a crisp Sunday night It is abuzz with patrons from couples to multigenerational families who seem to have embraced the menu which isnt missing a single dish from six months agoMixed Asian veggies dimsumSince the restaurant takes pride in its mocktails we start with a botanical martini Rs 300 It arrives in a widerimmed goblet that requires us to be extra careful But all that is quickly forgotten for the heat of the jalapenos laced with notes of thyme teases the palate making it a refreshing concoction and a step up from the sugarheavy drink we had tried the first time While we wait for our green keto salad Rs 380 and mixed Asian veggies dimsum Rs 380 we notice the absence of the potted succulent on the table which added a nice touch of green in keeping with Botanicas theme That said the interiors remain chic and the music peppyBotanical martiniThe service seems to have become quicker too But when the salad arrives mixed greens paneer feta and a meagre sprinkling of mixed nuts it does make us wonder how long it could possibly take to whip up such small portions The delicately prepared dim sums however make up for the disappointment with six pieces and delicious dips on the side For the mains we call for exotic Kolhapuri Rs 380 and a lacha paratha Rs 100 and multigrain roti Rs 65 The addition of red and yellow bell peppers and sweet corn attempts to exoticise the dish which though tasty is not very different from a regular Kolhapuri gravy In fact the overload of the corn kernels only takes away from the dish which we mop up with the soft multigrain rotiThe Guide first reviewed Botanica in June 2018 We conduct select anonymous followups to assess maintenance of standardsIts dessert time and we are all gaga over memories of the delectable basundi with rose caviar that wed tried the last time We realise its not just a personal favourite when we are told the restaurant has already run out of it We pick tiramisu Rs 300 and chefs special South East Asian ganache Rs 320 instead And thats when a pleasant dining experience takes a turn for the worse The tiramisu is unlike anything that the coffeeflavoured Italian treat should taste like We manage to have a couple of spoons hoping for the ganache to save the day But thats just about as disastrous with nothing Southeast Asian about it given the restaurants inroads into world cuisine we were expecting fluffy pandan cake bits in it On the contrary the ganache is stodgy and greasyWould we revisit Botanica on a whim Yes For it still remains one of the few vegetarian eateries in the city that dares to go beyond the tested formulae But well skip the desserts and instead head next door to BachelorrsTIME 12 pm to 12 amAT Patel Chambers Opera HouseCALL 23802828Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates