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On Maharashtra Day, relish our regional masalas

Kanika Sharma scouts for heady aromatic concoctions from various communities across the state, to understand how through the same spices, magic is created in every household

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Goda or Kala masala: Goda masala is particular to the Brahmin community. As per Santosh Khamkar, of RB Khamkar & Sons, Lalbaug, “Coriander is the overarching flavour.” Mohsina Mukaddam, food historian at Ramnarain Ruia College, tells us, “Summers are the best time to dry the chillis and get the garam masala grounded.” Garlic is avoided in the masala as per the community’s diet norms. The masala is darkish in colour (as seen in the picture) which is due to “the addition of dagad phool (lichen)” according to Saee Koranne, food blogger. The spice gives the masala an earthy flavour and colour. She adds, “The addition of eel-roasted dried coco-nut also contributes to a slightly nutty aroma called khamang that a discerning Maharash-trian palate looks out for.” Koranne also tells us that it is often used along with a souring agent such as kokum or tamarind and jaggery for balance. Common uses of the masala are: traditional Aamti (daal) and Bharli Vaangi.


Masala Menu: (Anti-clockwise): Goda masala (brown in colour), Malwan masala, fish masala, Sunday masala, Kolhapuri masala with turmeric powder in the middle.  

Kolhapuri Masala: Kolhapuri red chillis or Lavangi are world-famous for their fiery nature and characterise this masala. In Koranne’s words, the spice mix is slightly “clumpy” and comprises roasted garlic and onions counterbalanced by hot spices. Koranne further shares, “The masala is famously used in Kolhapuri Misal with a “kut” or thin broth that shimmers with the oily slick of the spice mix as well as a few traditional vegetable and goat meat preparations.” In Kolhapuri Tambada Rassa — as Chef Vijay Malhotra of ITC’s Peshwa Pavilion shares — Bedgi chillis are another particularity.

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