So maach joy

From being the coveted star of a feast to serving as the magical cure for a bad hangover maacher jhol or fish curry is the goto staple in average Bengali households Itrsquos so central to our nostalgia that we even have a movie dedicated to it Itrsquos no surprise then that Bangladeshorigin chef Kishwar Chowdhury chose to fall back upon this humble but nourishing dish to win over the judges of Masterchef Australia when she recently served them a barramundi tomato curry with jeera rice and bean bhorta Maladbased home chef Somma Ghosh whose parents were born in Bangladesh shares that maacher jhol is food for the soul ldquoBack when fridges were not that common in homes my mother would stop by at the market after dropping me off to school and pick fresh fish daily This meant that maacher jhol was always on the table on any amish nonvegetarian dayrdquo she reminiscesKishwar Chowdhury served the judgesUnlike sea fish found here in Mumbai Bengalis use river fish including bhetki rohu catla parshe tangra and pabda Ghosh recommends a trip to places such as Lokhandwala market Film City Road and Thakur Village to lay hands on fresh river catch ldquoThe cut is important we donrsquot cook with tiny chopped up pieces Ask for paeti a cut near the fishrsquos belly pieces if you wish to avoid too many bones Bhetki or barramundi has the least number of bonesrdquo she advisesThe home chef elaborates that maacher jhol assumes many forms depending on the fish and veggies used and the season For instance rohu or catla pair well with potatoes or a plain halditomato gravy but bhetki which smells a bit is better cooked with ginger or as a kalia a richer thicker gravy by adding onions ldquoThe tempering is also decided by the veggies used Brinjal and onion flowers mdash used more in winter mdash complement kalonji But potato cauliflower and pointed gourd mdash that thrive in summer mdash are tempered with cumin and fenugreek seedsrdquo she explainsBarramundi tomato curry jeera rice and bean bhorta Pics courtesyInstagramBengali maacher jholIngredientsgtgt 6 pieces river fish rohucatlabhetkigtgt 1 medium grated tomato or blend it with one green chilli to add more spicegtgt 1 tsp cumin powdergtgt 12 tsp chilli powdergtgt 12 tsp turmeric powdergtgt Salt to tastegtgt 6 tbsp mustard oilVegetable of choice Potato wedgespeeled and halved pointed gourdpeeled 2inch drumstickscauliflower floretsbroad beansFor temperinggtgt 14 tsp cumin seedsgtgt 6 pieces fenugreek seedsgtgt 1 bayleafVegetable of choice Brinjal wedgesonion flower stalks cut into 2inch stripsFor temperinggtgt A pinch of nigella seedsgtgt Sprigs of coriander leaves for garnishing optionalMethodGently run your fingers around the side of the fish and remove any scales that may have been left behind Wash the pieces thoroughly Patdry them Sprinkle and smear salt and turmeric powder evenly on them Heat the oil When itrsquos smoking and the colour changes to a lighter shade simmer the flame and gently tip in the marinated pieces separate from each other Cover with a lid Increase the flame After six to eight minutes simmer the flame and use a spatula to turn the pieces Remove them after both sides are lightly fried and place in the bowl yoursquoll serve the jhol inNow if the oil seems to have reduced a lot after frying add another tbsp After two minutes add the bay leaf cumin seeds and fenugreek seeds in that order or nigella seeds depending on your vegetable of choice Add the slices of veggies and sprinkle salt on them Cover and fry for eight to 10 minutes If you use brinjal remove the wedges from the kadhai after frying and add them later when the jhol is nearly readySomma GhoshOnce the veggies are lightly fried add the tomato paste Stir and when the tomato paste is sauteacuteed add turmeric powder cumin powder and red chilli powder along with a sprinkle of salt Sauteacute well and add half a cup of water When the water is bubbling for a couple of minutes add two more small cups of hot water Adjust depending on how much gravy you want Cover and cook for 10 minutes on sim till the veggies are semicookedAt this point gently add the fried fish pieces one at a time Cover and cook for another 10 minutes Check for seasoning Garnish with chopped coriander Serve with steamed basmati or kolam riceHow to pick rightGhosh suggests that a set of brightlooking eyes indicate that the fish is fresh ldquoIf you lift the hard cover on the head the gills should be bright red If the fish is firm itrsquos fresh The navel is on the side of the fish 34th to the tail once pressed near it there should be no opaque dischargerdquo she cautions