The fake books lining a shelf in a corner of the room outside the entrance to this restaurant was the first warning. The faux-artificial-turf (is that a double negative?) tablemats should have served as an ominous second.u00a0The third was probably the upside-down flowerpots that hung from the ceiling, which we chose to dismiss as a charming, if quirky, detail at the Waterstones Bar and Grill.

The flavours of the spinach,u00a0pine nuts and goat’s cheese in the Sambouseks worked in tandem, but were let down by an oily phyllo pastry