Two iconic South Mumbai Irani cafes share an age-old connection

Bun Maska and a glass of sweet milky chai we canrsquot think of a better way to start our morning One such quest for happiness took us to Regal Restaurant amp Bakery at Byculla E near the railway station exit The checked floor tiles vintage furniture and signage at their store also a part of the restaurant made us wonder how many such cafeacutes remain especially in Byculla However this neighbourhood has one on either side of the flyover which we found interesting As we crossed the road from Regal we spotted Byculla Restaurant amp Bakery on the opposite sideRegal Restaurant and Bakery near Byculla E railway station PicSayed Sameer AbediThe Iran connectionldquoIt was started in 1932 by my great grandfather who came to India from Iran in a caravan He started this place alongside Palace cinema which in the 1930s screened hit English and Hindi movies When it changed hands other things also changed The cinema shows Bhojpuri films now that caters to a different audiencerdquo says young Porus Merwan Zainabadi the thirdgeneration owner of RegalDarius Byculla Restaurant amp Bakery PicSayed Sameer AbediAcross the road when we enquired about the origins of the Byculla Restaurant a similar story unfurled ldquoMy father came to India from Iran He started a small shop and expanded slowly The restaurant is over 100 years old We had partnerships in five restaurants including the Renault and Rolex Over the years we sold them off because we couldnrsquot manage I started running this place since I was 18 my brother looks after the pharmacyrdquo says Darius last name withheld on request who was happy to chat with us but didnrsquot wish to reveal his full identityAfter some prodding we learnt that both restaurant owners are related to each other ldquoDarius uncle who owns Byculla Bakery is related to me His grandfather and my grandfather were brothersrdquo Zainabadi tells usPorus Merwan Zainabadi Regal Restaurant amp BakeryThe old boysAt a time when new restaurants open every day both Irani restaurants have managed to retain their staff for decades ldquoOur employees have been with us for over 40 years They eat here I offer them a meal of a dal a vegetable two chicken two mutton and two fish items every week I treat them like my ownrdquo reveals Darius ldquoToday most people want to work at malls because they pay higherrdquo he reasonsKhari Mawa Samosa from Regal Restaurant amp BakeryldquoSome employees have carried me on their shoulders when I was a boy They are family It is hard to find such employees these daysrdquo admits Zainabadi pointing out a whitehaired man at the counter who he addresses as lsquoChacharsquoDown memory laneldquoPeople still want their Bun Maska Even Catholics come for our plum cakes during Christmasrdquo says Darius as we take the kitchen tour where he shows me the old wooden oven and the new electric one offering me a hot crisp Khari Zainabadi hits a nostalgic note ldquoMany who visited us as kids now return with their families They love to share their stories with themrdquoBun Maska Mawa Cake from Byculla Restaurant amp BakerySurvival issuesWith changing times both restaurants are facing similar challenges to stay afloat ldquoI started running this place in 2000 Irani cafeacutes were located at the corners of roads mdash at junctions mdash placing them at vantage points making it convenient for people to spot them stop by and buy what they needed We had all kind of clientele from the rich to the poor Today with homedeliveries a vantage point ceases to exist People prefer visiting a mall for groceries watch a movie or grab a biterdquo reveals Zainabadi pensivelyldquoThe flyover didnrsquot exist earlier Now few pass by The demographic of the area has changed Catholics from here moved to New Bombay Navi Mumbai Muslims and Bohris now live here The Byculla vegetable market has moved and the flower market will move soon Those who worked at the market liked us to open at 5 am so they could eat their breakfast before workrdquo he recalls reminding me to sip on my chai as it might get cold ldquoBeing near the station doesnrsquot helpPeople are in a rush to catch their trains Footpath stalls with no overheads and no licenses steal a lot of our business Itrsquos unfortunaterdquo sighs ZainabadiBycullarsquos Darius has a similar tale ldquoEarlier on Sundays after mass it was tough to find a seat here After the Catholic community moved this has changed People visit malls and pay nearly R200 for a cup of coffee Irsquove been there too I can give you better coffee but you want the fancy cups and ambiencerdquo he quips adding ldquoEarlier we would sell about 300 cups of coffee a day now itrsquos dropped to 50 cups For the last few months I have been paying out of my pocket for salaries Tax water and electricity has become so expensiverdquo he ruesThe last of a legacyDarius is unsure about the future ldquoThe restaurant was my fatherrsquos wish Itrsquos why we are running it My children are abroad they donrsquot wish to return and work here It isnrsquot easy to get good managers In June this year my wife will retire as a lecturer at KEM Hospital After she does we will decide if we should keep or sell the restaurant I wish to retire Each time I think I will I wonder what will I do at homerdquo he admitsHe tells us about food inspectors who tell his staff to not keep hot baking trays on the floor and keep it on marbletop tables instead ldquoWe need to explain that the marble will crack There are no flies in my kitchen it is cleaner than most home kitchens You pay them Rs 5000 and they donrsquot have complaints anymorerdquo he adds angrilyldquoWhile taking over many including my family advised me to rethink but I wanted to I would like to pass it on to the next generation I like when people bring their families here It gets nostalgic for them If I homedeliver future generations will never know about the place We hope that wordofmouth and nostalgia helpsrdquo a hopeful Zainabadi signs off as dailybusiness beckons