Queen without a crown

FOOD INCONSISTENTAMBIENCE CHARMINGSERVICE BADCOST OVER PRICEDVERDICT 054The new world order that emerged after World War II set in motion a reshuffling inside the global corridors of powers in ways that rendered many powerless Of them possibly the most displaced was Queen Elizabeth II who shrunk from being the sovereign authority of a farreaching empire to the nominal head of the Commonwealth on which the sun had finally set The status of the 20 version of the erstwhile Tea Centre now rechristened Queens Deck ironically is much the sameWith a dark facade that could have used a light its easy to miss the space The structure of the sprawling tearoom has a layout similar to the old one with the retail store retaining its original position However the separate entry to the restaurant through the store remains to be opened Construction chalu hai a disinterested staffer tells us The decor has received a veritable upgrade mdash it has a classy vibe the alternating shades of brown beige and grey adding to the elegance The addition of long high tables stools and potted plants gives it a chic bent and a wall showcasing all sorts of teapots lends a certain cuteness to itTo begin with things are looking good except for the fact that were the only inhabitants of this palatial deck joined by a few waiters and a painter who makes a fleeting cameo We begin with a pot of Bombay masala chai R300 for single pot which has an inviting aroma We suggest you sip on it without milk mdash it is hard to imagine a masala chai that isnt milky but it is possible to savour this one if you leave your biases at the door To complement the warm beverage theres a portion of the corn jalapeno poppers Rs 342 which are flavourful croquettes with a stuffing studded with vivid green jalapenos and bloodred peppers The stuffingtocrust ratio is on point and they make for a yum snack Similarly the fried fish Rs 266 has a crispy panko crust and a meaty portion of fresh rawas Its delicious really and goes well with the dip which is like a cross between tartar and Russian saladFish fryThe childishsounding names of some of the mains on the menu duck duck go hilly billy make us laugh but that merriment is cut short when our server tells us that their card machines havent been setup and that they will shut at 10 pm instead of 11 which is the official closing timeLobster thermidorWe hope the mains make up for this disappointment But sadly the duck duck go Rs 1571 mdash with its lacklustre cranberry sauce tasteless herbed rice and undercooked meat mdash is going nowhere The lobster thermidor Rs 1285 is dispiriting and lacks the goodness associated with this indulgent toast to the king of seafood The creamy butter sauce mdash as the menu suggests mdash is hardly luscious and the dish is overpriced when compared to price points at which you can get this dish at the tea rooms direct and indirect competitors mdash Gallops R885 and The Harbour Bay Rs 1100 The highlight of this preparation The carrots maybeA pot of Badamtam earl grey Rs 571 for a single pot provides some respite for it has a distinct malty lemony flavour and a perfect orangegolden hue that confirms the quality of the blend It does help wash down the vapid meal but not quite the exorbitant prices or the awkward service Last weekend when we reported the reopening of this muchrevered space among the citys tealoving public the administration had informed us that theyll retain the tinker bells that had become synonymous with Tea Centre We didnt see the bells but that might not be the only reason why this Queen wont make much noiseAt Queens Deck ground floor Resham Bhavan Churchgate Open 7 am to 10pm Call 9819570964Food review rating 44 EXCEPTIONAL 34 EXCELLENT 24 VERY GOOD 14 GOOD 054 AVERAGEQueenrsquos Deck didnrsquot know we were there The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for mealsCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates