26 March,2010 06:52 AM IST | | Shweta Shiware
Did Gaurav Gupta sell his soul to a devil called commercialism? The young Delhi designer is unquestionably one of India's most radical minds.
Having created a dramatic impact with his silhouettes, he is known to thrill and shock, using the swirl of a drape, the snip of a cut before brushing the garment with quirky imagination no matter what size you are.
His AW 10-11 showing saw him take a dive from the standards he had single-handedly established for himself.
A fashion graduate from London's most coveted Central Saint Martins (Alexander McQueen, Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga), he brought street fashion to high street validation by using the jersey as a chic clothing option.
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The critical and commercial acclaim he received, was its glamourous residue.
On Thursday, Tartan killed his creativity. The traditional Scottish print of red and black checks saw an overkill, springing up on us from practically every design, sometimes taking on a funky blue and purple garb in chameleon fashion.
Yes, the fabric has found fans in Dolce and Gabbana, Yohji Yamamoto, Ralph Lauren and Ghesquiere, all incorporating it in their design vocabulary.
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But Gaurav tripped into tartan territory with juvenile abandon.
The botanical prints that usually dress his drapes, were transferred onto sculptured Victorian silhouettes in sharp shades of gold and silver, with bursts of bloody red.
He traded the sporty jersey for luxurious satin and chiffon, and joined hands with Swarovski to deck up his signature jewelled necklines and brooches. This is a calculated collaboration Gaurav needs to dig his teeth deeper into.
His mastery of drapes remains intact, but we've seen so much of that. Maybe an introduction of new drapes, newer ideas and a brand new stoicism will help. We don't mind waiting.
