Monsoon skincare SOS: Why your skin's acting out, and how to bring back the balance

Image for representational purpose only. Photo Courtesy: istock

The monsoon in India brings a refreshing respite from the heat, but it often brings a host of skin troubles too. The increased humidity, fluctuating temperatures, and dampness can throw your skin's balance completely off-kilter, leading to breakouts, fungal infections, and irritation.

To understand why your skin's acting out and how to restore its calm, mid-day spoke to Dr Mikki Singh, dermatologist and cosmetologist, founder and medical director at Bodycraft Clinics, and Dr Prachi B. Bodkhe, dermatologist at Envi Aesthetics.

The humidity huddle: Why monsoon triggers breakouts
Even if you don't typically battle acne, the monsoon's high humidity can unleash a wave of breakouts. Mikki Singh explains the science behind this phenomenon, "Increased humidity during the monsoon season causes your skin's sebaceous (oil) glands to become overactive."

She outlines two major issues:

Occlusion of pores: Sweat and humidity mix with sebum, dirt, and dead skin cells, clogging pores.
Altered skin microbiome: The moist environment encourages overgrowth of cutibacterium acnes (formerly P. acnes), leading to inflammation and breakouts.
"Even dry or normal skin types may start overproducing oil as a compensatory mechanism, especially when indoor air alternates between dampness and air-conditioning. Individuals who normally don't struggle with acne can suddenly experience breakouts during this season," Singh explains.
Monsoon skincare pitfalls: Steer clear for healthy skin
While proper care needs to be paid during the monsoon, one must also not overdo it. Prachi B. Bodkhe lists key pitfalls to steer clear of:
1. Over washing the face: Stick to washing twice a day with a mild cleanser.
2. Skipping moisturiser: Use a lightweight, non-greasy moisturizer. Alternatively, you can use hyaluronic acid-based serums and cover it with hydrating sunscreens.
3. Heavy makeup: Use breathable, non-comedogenic makeup, or skip it when possible. Alternatively, you can use tinted sunscreens.
4. Linen care: Not changing towels and pillowcases often.
5. Ignoring footwear-related hygiene: Use open footwear whenever possible. Dry your feet thoroughly and use antifungal powders wherever needed.

Your monsoon skincare arsenal: A daily routine for oily and acne-prone skin
To combat oiliness and prevent breakouts, a targeted skincare routine is crucial.

Singh recommends the following daily regimen:

Morning
Cleanser: Use a gentle foaming cleanser with salicylic acid (1 to 2 per cent) or tea tree oil to unclog pores and reduce oil.
Serum: Lightweight, non-comedogenic serum with niacinamide (5 per cent) or azelaic acid (10 per cent).
Moisturiser: Gel-based, non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturiser with hyaluronic acid.
Sunscreen: Matte-finish, gel-based broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30+).

Evening
Double cleanse: Use micellar water or a gentle oil cleanser followed by a foaming salicylic acid face wash.
Treatment: Spot treat with benzoyl peroxide (2.5 per cent) or a retinoid (like adapalene 0.1 per cent) at night. It is recommended to consult a doctor before starting a retinoid.
Moisturise: Non-comedogenic moisturiser with ingredients like ceramides or centella asiatica.
Ingredients to avoid
Heavy creams, petroleum-based products, and alcohol-based toners. Avoid layering too many actives (e.g., AHA + retinoid) without guidance - it can increase sensitivity.

The fungal factor: Preventing and recognising monsoon infections
Fungal infections like ringworm and athlete's foot flourish in the humid monsoon climate. Singh outlines key preventative measures and early warning signs:

Preventative measures
1. Keep skin dry, especially in folds (groin, underarms, toes).
2. Change wet clothes and socks immediately after exposure to rain.
3. Use antifungal powders (clotrimazole or ketoconazole-based) in high-sweat areas.
4. Avoid synthetic or tight clothing - opt for breathable cotton.
5. Footwear hygiene: Use open-toed sandals when possible and disinfect shoes regularly.

Early signs to watch
1. Ringworm: Red, circular, itchy rashes with raised edges - typically on groin, thighs, or chest.
2. Athlete's foot: Scaling, peeling, or itching between the toes, often with a foul odour.
"Always consult a dermat especially if the itch worsens, spreads, or doesn't improve in 5-7 days of over the-counter treatment," Singh advises.
Beyond hygiene: Lesser-known triggers for monsoon rashes
It's not just about cleanliness. Several environmental and lifestyle factors contribute to monsoon-related skin rashes. Singh sheds light on these often-overlooked culprits:

Environmental triggers:
1. Wearing damp clothes and shoes for prolonged hours may lead to frictional dermatitis.
2. Allergens in rainwater (pollutants, bacteria) may trigger eczema or contact dermatitis.
3. Increased indoor mould from moisture may cause flares in atopic or sensitive skin.

Lifestyle habits:
1. Over-cleansing due to the sticky feeling strips skin barrier, causing irritation.
2. Skipping moisturisers paradoxically worsens oil production and sensitivity.
3. Using hot water baths frequently exacerbates dryness and inflammation.

Home treatments (for mild irritation):
1. Calamine lotion for soothing irritation.
2. Cold compresses and fragrance-free moisturizers.

Professional intervention is required if:
1. Rash spreads rapidly or becomes painful.
2. There is oozing, crusting, or fever.
3. No improvement within 3 to 5 days of home care.

As always, consult a dermatologist before the condition gets worse.

Tackling excessive sweating (Hyperhidrosis) in monsoon
For those experiencing excessive sweating, the monsoon can be particularly challenging. Bodkhe offers strategies to manage hyperhidrosis and prevent associated skin issues saying, "During the monsoon, many people experience excessive sweating, especially in areas like the underarms, back, and groin. This, along with tight clothing, can lead to clogged pores, sweat rashes, and infections (folliculitis)."

Bodkhe recommends:
1. Antiperspirants over deodorants: Switching to antiperspirants from deodorants helps by reducing sweat output. Apply them at night for best results.
2. Antibacterial cleansers: Shower daily with antibacterial cleansers. Benzoyl peroxide-based soaps and cleansers work best to keep odour in check.
3. Professional treatments: Botulinum toxin works wonders for axillary and palmoplantar hyperhidrosis (sweating over palms and soles). Iontophoresis is one more easily available and less invasive approach.

The sunscreen imperative: Don't skip it on cloudy days
A common misconception is that sunscreen isn't needed on cloudy or rainy days. Bodkhe clarifies why broad-spectrum sunscreen remains non-negotiable during monsoon, "UV rays are present year-round, and up to 80 per cent of UV rays can penetrate clouds, so sunscreen is a must."

1. Look for sunscreens labelled SPF 30 or higher with 'broad-spectrum' protection.
2. Opt for gel-based, mineral, or hybrid sunscreens that are oil-free, lightweight, and won't clog pores.
3. Remember to reapply every 2 to 3 hours if outdoors.

Nurturing sensitive skin during monsoon's fluctuations
Sensitive skin can be particularly prone to irritation and flare-ups due to the fluctuating monsoon weather.

Bodkhe advises on protecting and caring for delicate skin:
1. Avoid experimenting with new products during this season.
2. Stick to gentle, fragrance-free cleansers and moisturisers.
3. Use ceramide-based creams to strengthen the skin barrier and protect against environmental irritants.
4. Dry properly after getting wet, as rainwater can be slightly acidic and full of pollutants.
5. Use light, hydrating serums, then seal in with a non-greasy moisturizer.
6. Keep indoor areas ventilated and use organic air purifiers if needed.