Inside Chowpatty's Dussehra celebrations, and how its Ramleela is evolving to cater to changing times in Mumbai

Actors rehearse their lines backstage before the presentation. PICS/ ASHISH RAJE

As dusk settles over Chowpatty on the evening we drop by, the world of the Ramayana comes alive on stage, drawing audiences into a tale of virtue, valour and the triumph of good over evil.

At Swaraj Bhoomi, the Shree Adarsh Ramleela Samiti Trust has transformed its annual presentation into an elaborate theatrical experience, where the ancient epic meets modern spectacle.

One of the heads of the effigy

Beyond the performance, the looming Ravana effigy carries its own story, shaped by the hands of artisans from Uttar Pradesh who know that their creation is destined for a spectacular end.

"We noticed that people were losing patience with Ramleela. Not just Gen Z, but older generations too," says committee member Devendra Agarwal. In response, the Samiti this year introduced a more varied presentation, with a 64-foot LED stage and a cast of over 50 performers. Visitors can experience 3D Ram Darshan, take a virtual reality tour of the Ayodhya temple and visit the Ramayana Wisdom Gallery, adding new ways to engage with the epic.

Shehezaad Ahmed crafts

But the Ramleela's impact extends beyond the stage, to the artisans whose skill and labour give the evening's central figure its imposing presence. For Hafijuddin Ahmed and his fellow artisans, Ravana Dahan is the culmination of their labour. "We do this for a living. There is a lot of hard work, time and effort that goes into it," he says.

Actors discuss a scene before taking the stage

Shehezaad Ahmed, who crafts Ravana's head, sees the burning as an essential part of the tradition. "We know why we are doing this. It's a tradition which should be followed, and we are happy to be a part of it." Rather than regret, he says, the moment brings a sense of freedom and lightness as the work finally comes to an end. Nawabuddin Khan finds a deeper truth in the ritual. "Every creation, ultimately, is bound to end; some in a graveyard, some by fire." For him, the flames mark the end of a creation that has demanded time, skill and effort.

The team adds final touches to the Ravana effigy

At Chowpatty, the journey from stage to spectacle makes Dussehra an occasion to experience the Ramayana beyond its familiar telling, with Ravana Dahan bringing the celebrations to a dramatic close.

On Today, 5 pm onwards
At Chowpatty, Girgaon, Charni Road

Nawabuddin Khan

Ravana Dahan across the city

>> AT Shivaji Raje Ground, Gaikwad Nagar, Malad West.
TIME 6.30 pm onwards

>> AT Azad Maidan, Mahapalika Marg (entrance).
TIME 6 pm onwards

>> AT Utsav Chowk, Pravesh Marg, Kharghar.
TIME 7 onwards

>> AT Indra Nagar Vikas Mandal, Wagle Industrial Estate, Thane West.
TIME 7.30 pm onwards

>> AT Cement Ground, Antop Hill Police Station,Sion East.
TIME 6 pm onwards

Devendra Agarwal and Hafijuddin Ahmed

Festive fare

>> Hornby's Pavilion: Savour a Navratri thali featuring Sabudana Khichdi, Kuttu Ki Poori and other fasting favourites.
AT ITC Grand Central, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road, Parel.
COST Rs 1650

>> Khandani Rajdhani: The festive spread includes Aloo Pulao Samo, Rajgira Puri, Kachcha Kela Pattice and Kuttu Ke Pakode.
AT Palm Beach Road, Sector 19D, Vashi.
COST Rs 1200 for two

>> Via Bombay: The Vrat Thali pairs Farali Misal with Makhana Kheer for a sweet finish.
AT Near BMC Office, Chembur.
COST Rs 295

>> Namah Bengaluru Coffee House: Try a Karnataka-style festive Oota with Rasam, Sambar, Majjige Huli, Puliyogare, Obbattu and Mysore Pak.
AT Four Bungalows, RTO Lane, Andheri West.
COST Rs 500 onwards

>> Banana Leaf: The Navratri menu features vrat-friendly favourites such as Sabudana Idli and Rajgira Dosa.
AT Banana Leaf outlets across Mumbai.
COST Rs 130 onwards