08 August,2026 09:50 AM IST | Mumbai | Rumani Gabhare
(Left) Parth Upadhyay with Nirmal Purja, also known as Nims Dai; (right) Upadhyay climbs Manaslu, located in the Mansiri Himal range of the Nepalese Himalayas. Pics Courtesy/Parth Upadhyay
Whether you're active on social media or not, you are likely to have heard British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja's or Nims Dai's iconic words: "Giving up is not in the blood, sir; it's not in the blood." The line, spoken during his historic 2019 Project Possible expedition, inspired millions. Following 43-year-old Purja's death in the Broad Peak avalanche on the world's 12th-highest mountain in the Karakoram range on July 30, Mahim-based mountaineer Parth Upadhyay, who was his close friend, discusses the realities of high-altitude climbing and the lessons every mountaineer should know.
>> Progress gradually: Gain experience on 5000 to 6000-metres peaks before attempting an 8000-metre mountain. Smaller expeditions build confidence and judgement.
>> Invest in training: Complete recognised Basic Mountaineering, Advanced Mountaineering and Search and Rescue courses to develop essential technical skills.
>> Expect the unexpected: Climb in varying conditions to understand bad weather, altitude sickness and teamwork during emergencies.
>> Respect the mountain: Even the best preparation cannot eliminate risk. Humility is as important as skill.
>> Avoid panicking: Stay calm, assess the situation and respond logically.
>> Earn your summit: Build experience on smaller peaks before attempting an 8,000-metre mountain.
>> Save half your energy: Reserve at least 50 per cent of your strength for the descent because reaching the summit is only half the journey.
>> Know when to turn back: If the climb is draining too much energy or conditions worsen, abandoning the summit is the safest decision.
>> Look after your body: Stay hydrated, eat well, sleep adequately and acclimatise properly to adapt to thinner air.
>> Don't rush the mountains: Develop technical skills, fitness and sound judgement while training instead of chasing quick summits.
Looking to take your first step into mountaineering? These institutes offer structured courses for every skill level
>> Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling:
Basic, Advanced, Search and Rescue, and instructor-level mountaineering courses.
>> Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM), Uttarkashi:
Basic and Advanced Mountaineering to Search and Rescue and expedition leadership.
>> Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports (ABVIMAS), Manali:
Basic and Advanced Mountaineering, along with specialised courses in rock climbing, skiing and adventure sports.
>> Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering & Winter Sports (JIM&WS), Pahalgam:
Basic, Advanced and Search and Rescue courses, along with winter sports training.
While Sherpas enjoy a natural advantage at high altitudes, climbers from sea-level regions can still excel on the world's tallest peaks. Those from lower altitudes compensate by building endurance, strengthening their bodies through years of training, adapting to lower oxygen levels during expeditions, and developing the judgement to stay calm and make rational decisions in extreme conditions. At high altitudes, preparation and experience can narrow the gap created by geography.
Information courtesy: Parth Upadhyay
He was an absolute party animal. I still remember one evening at base camp when we all partied together. The next morning, the rest of us could barely function, but he walked into our tent full of energy and asked if we were ready for an acclimatisation climb. That's the Nims Dai I'll always remember - larger-than-life, full of energy, yet grounded enough to sit with you like a brother. The world remembers the records he broke; I'll remember the friend behind them," recalls Upadhyay.
