09 March,2010 07:36 AM IST | | Daipayan Halder
The Bhapa festival is just one more reason to visit the eatery that pampers the Bengali palette
I remember my mother's words when I told her about Oh! Calcutta some six years ago. "Food for Bengalis is
"Because," I said, "The restaurant is as much about the small, thoughtful touches as it is about food."
Things haven't changed.
Be it the coasters with a sketch of Kolkata's heritage structures, the small 'bodi' and yoghurt dip while you wait for the food, the fish bowl with a fresh flower floating in water, the book shelf tucked away in a corner, the Rabindra sangeeth playing in the background. People like me, for whom Calcutta is life, interrupted, keep revisiting this restaurant with non-Bengali friends and lovers u2013 to show off a bit of cultural supremacy.
We began with, what else, fish fry. The fish was fresh and in trademark style, the oil was invisible. The mochar chop was good too. But I was waiting for the bhapa starters u2013 seem (a green vegetable) and kakda chingri (crab and prawn). And was I well rewarded. The crab that was served with a tamarind mint sauce is a must-have. I would have had more (a plate comes with two pieces) but wanted to taste other fare too.
So we began the main course with the luchis (Bengali, full maida version of the poori), cholar dal (a Bengali chana dal, slightly sweet and made with coconut, available on the regular menu and should be included in all meals), bhajar thala (assorted, fried vegetables) and kosha mangsho (an infinitely better version of bhuna mutton).
With the rice, we were served Daab Chingri (prawns cooked in coconut milk gravy and served in a tender coconut), Dhone Bhapa Maach (fresh water fish in coriander paste, steamed) and Bhetki Maacher Paturi (one of the best varieties of fish, Bhetki, steamed in mustard paste). The prawns, I always order them, were good as usual (but there were only four pieces instead of the usual five). The mustard fish was outstanding and I recommend it as strongly as the crabs. I thought the coriander fish would not hold any water against the strong flavour mustard, but I was, happily, wrong.
The payesh for dessert, made with nolen gur (a kind of Bengali jaggery), was slightly sweet but good nonetheless. But it is the ice cream made with the same jaggery and coconut that should top off a good meal.
On my way out, I called my mother in Calcutta to say how much I miss her, especially after such good food.
Oh! Calcutta
Where: International Trade Tower, Nehru Place
When: Ongoing
Call: 26464180
Meal for two: Rs 1,500
