Aiyo kitchen

31 March,2010 06:58 AM IST |   |  Lalitha Suhasini

Barely a fortnight-old, Iyer's Kitchen has nailed the Chennai taste but the experience is far from A-ha!


Barely a fortnight-old, Iyer's Kitchen has nailed the Chennai taste but the experience is far from A-ha!

For vegetarian South Indians in the suburbs, Iyer's Kitchen means a trip or two less to Matunga, we thought, considering both the food and service at Banana Leaf in 4 Bungalows will never draw a self-respecting South Indian back.

The third contender, Rice Boat offers the best service in the 'burbs but the food is a bit overpriced and inconsistent.

The service at Iyer's Kitchen, a few buildings away from Rice Boat on Yari Road is appalling.

Suresh Mudaliaru00a0 (who broke away from Rice Boat and brought in a franchise of Sabari Inn from Chennai) runs the place with what looked like one waiter by his side.

Puliyodarai.


The Iyer folks were having a bad day. A table of 12 walked out after some unnecessarily loud feedback. For entertainment, there was rich Carnatic music and Mudaliar cursing a little too loudly, at every wrong order.

We called for two Kara Dosas (Rs 90 each).

The first was cold and nothing like the menu described spicy, thin crepe with spices, onions and potatoes but extremely tasty. There were no onions or potatoes in it, only a generous spread of Mozhagapodi (idli powder).

The chutney accompaniments pudina, tomato, coconut, were excellent so we didn't bother with the passable sambar. The second was limp and cold, minus even the idli powder. It was a drooping dosa.

When we ordered the Tomato Rice (Rs 90), Mudaliar refused to accept that it existed on the menu until we showed it to him. The Puliyodarai (Tamarind Rice, Rs 90) tasted authentic except they used long grain rice.
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It was tangy and sharp with just the right amount of asafoetida, an important ingredient but set our tongues on fire. Maybe that's why it was paired with a bowl of curd assuming that everybody who walks in is a curd-crazy South Indian.
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The Sindhi foodie, who we recommended it to, without being given to exaggeration, died a bit after his first Puliyodarai experience. And didn't go to heaven the next day either.

The unlimited Thali (Rs 220) included Rasam, Sambar, Keerai (greens with lentils), thinly sliced and spiced Bitter Gourd Fritters, Moru (butter milk), Rava Kesari. Again, an average meal.
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The best part about the thali is that you can call for dosas or appams to kick off this meal. The worst you don't know when they'll arrive.

Or if they will. You can look at the placemats with dull photos and nuggets about Chennai and places around (Mahabalipuram) to kill time.

We didn't let the du00e9cor or the lack of it (floorboards sticking out) bother us.

Take a mad work or friends group since a family (like the dozen who walked out) will not take to chaos when they're out dining (there's always enough at home). We finished with the Madras Coffee (Rs 25) an exception.
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It was good filter coffee and hot.

We empathised with the new restaurant's short-staffed plight and it's hilarious to watch the manager handle customers brusquely as if they were his relatives at a wedding feast.

Mudaliar should step off the service side and take over the cash counter, and may be add a couple of draws there instead of stuffing note bills into his pocket.

At: Yari Road, next to Rice Boat, Versova, Andheri.
Call: 9833025645
Iyer's Kitchen didn't know
we were there. THE GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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