Where kulcha is king

18 January,2010 07:34 AM IST |   |  Antoine Lewis

If monotony and a craving for stuffed Indian breads is your thing, step into Oshiwara's new rustic snack joint that prides itself on an entire menu dedicated to the Kulcha


If monotony and a craving for stuffed Indian breads is your thing, step into Oshiwara's new rustic snack joint that prides itself on an entire menu dedicated to the Kulcha

Interspersed among a melange of restaurants on the Andheri-Oshiwara stretch of the arterial New Link Road, are tiny, almost hole-in-the wall eateries offering interesting fare at fairly reasonable prices.
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Being simple, neighbourhood places, they sport ambience that's usually rudimentary. It's the quality of food and competent service that's the focus here.

Rooh Punjab Di, with just three tables seating a maximum of 12 guests, pretty much falls into this category.

The Kulchas are prepared in a bhatti located outside the main seating area


Essentially a snack corner serving only Kulchas, there's not much by way of decor in this brightly-lit, colourful, long room.

Outside, in the handkerchief-sized porch, stands a solitary bhatti where the Kulchas (a type of naan typical to Punjab, stuffed with vegetables and baked in an earthen clay oven) are prepared.

The menu is naturally limited, offering a choice of 10 fillings that are all variations of aloo, cheese and paneer. On request, they can prepare a Mattar Paneer and add onion to the filling.

The Kulchas, priced between Rs 50 and Rs 70 a plate, are served with Chole (spicy chickpea gravy) and tangy Onion Salad.

While the crisp tandoori-baked Kulchas, topped with butter and Chaat Masala were tasty, we thought the fillings were indistinguishable.

We couldn't tell the Aloo Kulcha from the Paneer, or the Cheese from the Mix Kulcha: they looked the same, and tasted the same. Rooh... also offers a luscious, unbranded packaged Sweet Lassi that we recommend.

Since Kulchas are usually available only as part of the Indian bread basket at most restaurants, the idea of an eatery dedicated to the modest stuffed naan deserves a thumbs up.

Go for it if you are in the mood for a snack different from generic Chaat.

The only downside to a meal here is that it's not an eco-friendly place. They use disposable plastic sectioned plates and cutlery. We'd much rather dig from steel thalis and down Lassi from a copper tumbler.

At: Shop 2B, Swati Apartments, next to 5 Spice Restaurant, opposite Mega Mall, Anand Nagar, Oshiwara, Andheri (W). Call: 9320297788 / 42646460
Rooh Punjab Di didn't know we were there. The GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for meals
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Kulcha bhatti restaurants Rooh Punjab Di