Why is Mumbai drinking more beer?

14 March,2010 01:47 AM IST |   |  Urvashi Seth and Aditi Sharma

The excise department says it has noticed a 'mysterious' rise in the sale of beer in Mumbai in 2009-2010. They confess they have no idea why. We just might


The excise department says it has noticed a 'mysterious' rise in the sale of beer in Mumbai in 2009-2010. They confess they have no idea why. We just might

These days, officers of the excise department are grappling with a brainteaser. Why is Mumbai suddenly guzzling more beer? According to sources within the department, the revenue collected from beer in the financial year 2009-2010 amounts to approximately Rs 700 crore. That's Rs 300 crore more than in 2008. The hike in sale of fermented beer is 30 per cent, with an additional 11 per cent rise in the sale of mild beer. Beer has emerged the clear winner among spirits since the sale of Indian Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL) has gone up by a mere 7 per cent.



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Why beer?
I'm a pucca beer drinker because it's lighter than other drinks, so I can have more of it. I can open a pint or can at home as easily as I would at a nightclub. Plus, these days, there are so many choices available. The high-end brands are nicer although they come at a price.
Rishu Singh, marketing and activation manager, Rolling Stone magazine

When we go out to party, the idea is to have fun rather than get sloshed. On such occasions, a pint of beer that's easy to carry around, makes most sense.
Gaurav Athalye, wildlife enthusiast
"Generally, beer sales tend to go up in summer. But this year, the scenario is different. We have observed a sudden hike between April last year and now. We have been unable to figure a reason for the same," said an excise official who didn't wish to be named.

Mumbaikars consume close to 9 lakh litres of beer every month, revealed the official. The number has now jumped to 12 lakh litres. NN Mudiraj, superintendent (suburbs), state excise department corroborated the surprising rise. "It has to do with the increase in spending power. Mumbaikars have also become more health conscious," said Mudiraj, perhaps referring to the lower alcohol content in beer as compared to other spirits.

Freddy Ginwala, president of Maharashtra Wine Merchants Association (MWMA) pins it all down to afffordability.
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"People are always looking for affordable options, and beer is one of them. Abroad, beer is treated like any other soft drink. The trend is making its way to India. A jump in prices might affect consumption patterns again, though," he said.u00a0

Cops say it doesn't matter

Koustav Mukherjee, food and beverage manager with Ambassador Hotel, Marine Drive, says the younger lot, BPO professionals and corporates want it cheap. Besides, the alcohol content is just 4 to 8 per cent, so that makes it preferable for some. For those smart alecs who believe the lower alcohol content will help them skirt traffic police officials on drink-and-drive duty, joint commissioner of police (traffic) Sanjay Barve has this to say. "People caught for drinking and driving are arrested only if they touch the 30 mark on the breath analyzer.

Beer to cost you more

It is the time to downsize your order from a pitcher to a pint since the excise department has decided to up excise duty on beer by almost 20 per cent. It's the sudden increase in beer sales that have led excise officers to plan revenue boosting measures. The department is planning to increase the duty on beer from Rs 18 to Rs 22," revealed a senior excise officer from the Maharashtra State Excise Department.

Retailers unhappy
The move has upset retailers. "Retailers in Maharashtra are already paying huge taxes, excise duty and octroi. After Andhra Pradesh, beer is the costliest in Mumbai. It will mean huge losses for us," said Sanjeev Arora, proprietor of Jyoti wines, Bhandup. Another wholesaler from Juhu, on the condition of anonymity, said, "The excise department is known to introduce laws that are vague and unreasonable. Suddenly the government has a problem with the fact that Mumbaikars are consuming more beer."

Tipplers give a thumbs down
Tushar Iyer, a BPO executive, says the department should reconsider their decision since most professionals are still dealing with the after effects of recession. "People like me prefer beer because it is light and affordable. If they increase rates, we'll be forced to shift to country liquor." Zari Screwala, a sales executive echoed Iyer's sentiments. "This is not done! How will the common man survive?"

We are not concerned with what kind of alcohol they have had. If they are found flouting the rule, they will be arrested."

The sudden rise is far from mysterious, say hospitality industry insiders. They attribute the trend to beer becoming a 'cooler' drink, with a barrage of international brands piercing the Indian market, aggressive promotions and smarter packaging (cans, and brands like Tuborg that eleminate the need for a bottle opener), that have all made it an alluring drink for the young Mumbaikar.

Buy beer like you'd buy soap

Naresh Sidhwani, consultant with a multinational firm, calls himself a 'hardcore vodka drinker who switched to beer'. "These days, when I go grocery shopping, I also pick up pints of beer. In fact, my initiation into beer drinking occurred only because I saw some smart looking beer bottles at my local grocery store. The newer brands are better looking, and tasting."

Upmarket grocery and provisions stores like Godrej Nature's Basket and Future Group's Big Bazaar have special sections allotted to stock beer. Smart displays and easy accessibility have worked in its favour. Mohit Khattar, MD, Godrej Nature's Basket explains that their strategy is to stock a wide variety of mild beers that aren't easily available elsewhere. "Consumers find it very easy to buy beers in the shopping environment. It's all about display. We have seen a 70 per cent hike at this time of the year, as compared to the same time last year."

Russel Saldanha, owner of Jude Wines, one of Bandra's most frequented alcohol haunts, says the range of brands, most of them affordable, has shot up. Domestically brewed London Pilsner, Amberro, Kingfisher Premium, Fosters, Tuborg, Budweiser, Carlsberg, Kingfisher Ultra, Strong, Draft and Blue, Tiger, Haywards 2000 and 5000 and Akocim Palone can be bought for anywhere between Rs 50 and Rs 100. Imported brands like Heinekin, Asahi, Stella, Corona, Hoegaarden, Peroni and a host of others are available between Rs 130 and Rs 170. "Beer has become cheap. A whole bottle costs as much as a quarter of a lot of decent brands of whiskey," says Saldanha.

It's a working day drink

The promotion of beer sales is veering towards European culture, where beer is not considered alcohol, and is thus becomingu00a0 a part of working lunches too. "In the middle of their hectic schedule, young executives want a drink to refresh themselves. They are not looking to get high. A working lunch with a glass of beer is common these days. Moreover, beer sales go up on days when matches are playing on television. With just a couple of pints in their hand, they can spend the entire evening watching a sport," explains Bishnu Das, VP Operations, TGIF.

Interestingly, unlike in the past, when only barley-based beers were available, these days you have a whole fancy variety to choose from -- wheat-based beers, low calorie ones and flat beers too. Mayank Bhatt, F&B Manager at Parel's most rocking live act club, Blue Frog, says, there are wheat beers like Hoegarden, Schneider Weisse and Murphy that are available easily over the bar. "They are much lighter and more refreshing and they are low on calories, so they are getting picked up faster."

At night clubs and bars that do brisk business on weekends, beer sales have gone up considerably. This is being attributed to special promotional nights organised by beer brands. Meldan Dacunha, owner of Soul Fry Casa says when a beer company sponsors special events, it helps them build the brand since that's the only beer that will be sold that night, and guests get their doze of entertainment too. "Every brand has upped its marketing effort," believes Samar Singh Shekhawat, senior VP, marketing, UB Group, manufacturers of Kingfisher Beers.u00a0

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The fastest growing beer markets in India
States of Karnataka, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Goa
It has a story

For a city that's racing for time, ordering a pint at a crowded hangout is far quicker than waiting for that killer cocktail. It doesn't required a cola mix. Besides, like whiskey, it's proving to be a conversation starter. Beers these days have their own tales, like champagnes and wines do. Bhatt explains that well-informed bartenders talk to patrons about varieties and what makes each unique. "It works as an ice breaker with guests being told what glass to use for what beer, and why. Earlier, such tales were only associated with champagnes and single malts."u00a0

52.6%
Mumbaikars who prefer drinking beer

47.3%
Go for distilled spirits

0.14%
Prefer wine


Aussie cricket flat without beer
DOUG Walters, the flamboyant batsman who played for Australia over three decades, loved his beer. That's putting it mildly. Walters was on the field when a riot broke out during the India vs Australia Test match at the Brabourne Stadium in the 1969-70 series over a controversial dismissal of India tailender S Venkatraghavan. The Aussies who stayed at the Cricket Club of India rooms (no five-star accommodation in those days) ran off the field. They huddled together in one of the rooms that had a bathtub of beer. "Fellas, there are ten thousand people in front of the main grandstand calling for (captain) Bill Lawry's blood," team manager Fred Bennett told his team. Walters did not waste any time and uttered: "C'mon Fred, give 'em Lawry and let's get on with the drinking."


Australian cricket writer Ray Robinson at the Melbourne Cricket Ground.
PIC COURTESY/Pageant of Cricket by David Frith

RAY Robinson (1905-1982) was a much-loved journalist who the Australian cricket team admired. No journo could come close to the dressing room but the rules were different for Robinson, known as 'Sugar Ray' to the Aussie cricketing fraternity. Robinson suffered from an ulcer problem and stayed away from fresh beers. Wicketkeeper Rodney Marsh would open a couple of bottles well before Robinson could make his customary entry so that the beers would be flat enough by then.


Rod Marsh and Sunil Gavaskar during the 1980-81 India vs Australia Test series.
Pic courtesy/ Chappell, Lillee, Marsh by Peter Murray

ONE look at former Australian batsman David Boon and you'll know he is a beer lover. He was one of the most determined men to wear the baggy green and is known for his significant opening partnerships with Geoff Marsh (father of Sean Marsh who plays for Kings XI Punjab in the IPL). But Boon is also known for setting the record of most beers consumed on a flight. On a flight to London from Sydney in 1989, Boon guzzled 52 cans. Despite his act, he was not banned by the management as they would do nowadays. "David walked off the plane and attended a press conference. He was spoken to but never looked like doing anything as silly again," remembered then coach Bob Simpson. The earlier record was held by wicketkeeper Rodney Marsh who consumed 44 cans while travelling from Australia to England for the 1977 Ashes.
Alcohol content chart
Fruit Juice: 0.1%
Bacaardi Breezers:u00a0 4% - 7%
Beer: 6% - 8 %
Wine (general): 10% - 15%
Liquor/Spirits: 40%
Whisky/Rum: 60%
Absinthe: 55% - 89.5%


Beer consumption across regions
North: 20 per cent, East: 8 per cent,u00a0
West: 26 per cent South: 46 per cent

Most convincing theory
It involves simple demographics. Every year, at least 2% of India's country's population is added to the list of eligible drinkers. "Every year, a fresh bunch of youngsters cross the permissible age limit for drinking. Beer is what most of them start with," says Samar Singh Shekhawat.

The Other Side
When Mid-DAY contacted C S Sangeet Rao, principal secretary Transport & Excise, he said he was busy in a meeting. PT Gaud, joint secretary for excise cited ignorance, saying, "I don't know anything about this matter."
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Beer consumption rise Mumbai excise department 12 lakh litres 700 cr beer sales