Visiting Nagpur’s Deekshabhoomi

Illustration/Uday Mohite

Nagpur IN 46 degrees heat is not something I recommend. But I've been following Dalit history and culture since eight years, and Nagpur interested me as a city with the headquarters of the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), as well as Deekshabhoomi. It was a dream to visit Deekshabhoomi, where Dr Bhimrao Ambedkar, realizing that the Dalits and lower castes would never get equal rights or dignity as Hindus, led a mass conversion to Buddhism on October 14, 1956, along with an estimated 6,00,000 followers (some say less); it remains a popular shrine for Navayana Buddhism, visited by millions. I went on a guided tour of Deekshabhoomi by Sharad Meshram, the very kind Coordinator at Deekshabhoomi, and it was a deeply moving, inspiring experience.

In Nagpur, I also met a range of experts -- intellectuals, historians, writers, a lokshahir and a filmmaker. These include Dr Avinash Fulzele, IM Narnaware, writer, who had participated in the ‘Long March' for the Namantar Andolan (name change of Marathwada University to Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar University, a 20-year struggle from 1974-1994) and dharmantar, Tarachand Khandekar, cultural historian who had also participated in the dharmantar, Dr Trilok Hajare, former Principal Scientist Indian Council of Agricultural Research, Lokshahir Prakash Patankar and filmmaker Chhatrapal Ninawe, whose Ghaath had a world premiere at the Berlinale. I also did a life skills workshop for Raju Kendre's Eklavya India Foundation at Pithesur, Nagpur, for underprivileged students, preparing for higher studies at the best universities in India and the world.

One of the big revelations was what Dr Avinash Fulzele, Prof and Head of Department, Dr Ambedkar Chair and Thought, Rashtrasant Tukadoji Maharaj Nagpur University, explained to me: "Dharmantar (religious conversion) liberated millions. But it was a huge loss as well. It led to a lot of litigation because as soon as they had converted to Buddhism, some felt that as they were no longer Scheduled Caste Hindus, and no longer entitled to reservations in education and jobs." He added "Babasaheb had a well thought-out rehabilitation plan for the converted. But he fell sick and died on December 6, 1956, barely two months after he had converted."

Dr Trilok Hajare explains to me the deeper socio-economic context, how "Fifty per cent of India's population, in agriculture, is reduced to being beggars, because of depletion of water and soil resources. Even labourers are better off than farmers, as they get paid daily wages and can move to cities."

Lokshahir (people's poet/protest singer) Prakashnath Patankar is famous for his qawwals and jabardast Bhim geet (songs on Bhimrao Ambedkar), one of which goes, "Tujhya bapanach lihilay kaayda, ghe na leka adhyaksha padacha faayda" (Your father himself has written the law (constitution), son, take full advantage of the authority it gives you). He says, "I sing in Urdu, Hindi, Marathi and Punjabi, all over India. During the Ganpati season and other festivals, we would have qawwali saamna (competitions), and people of all religions would attend. Since the BJP came to power, they have decided that qawwali is "Muslim music" and only "Hindu music" must be played, so they play jagrans. Now only mainly Buddhists invite me to sing. Otherwise, political parties invite me when they want to rouse the crowds."

Nagpur was very insightful. Thank you to the many who helped me with information and contacts, including Jaideep Hardikar, Somnath Waghmare, Asang Wankhede, Vilas Bhongade, Dipankar Kamble, Pradeep Aglave and others. And thank you, Chhatrapal Ninawe, for dinner, sampling Nagpur's superb Varhadi and Saoji food, including Gola Bhaat, Patodi rassa and more.

Meenakshi Shedde, film curator, has been working with the Toronto, Berlin and other festivals worldwide for 30 years. She has been a Cannes Film Festival Jury Member and Golden Globes International Voter, and is a journalist and critic. Reach her at meenakshi.shedde@mid-day.com