A food pop-up that coincides with Durga Puja celebrations will bring to Mumbai, the lip-smacking street foods from Kolkat
Chitpur Road Chicken Rezala (Rs 395)
Iti Misra's earliest memory of street food is sitting in her father's car and gorging on hot kachoris from Putiram Sweets on College Street out of a patta. As a college student, it was gorging on ghoognis at Vivekanand Park.
"It was never as good when made at home," says the Kolkata-based home chef, who has joined hands with Dheeraj Varma, head chef Monkey Bar India, to present a street food menu titled Next Stop Kolkata! across pan-India outlets from October 4 to 21.
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Ghooghni (Rs 225)
The septuagenarian is raring to go, and confessed finding interest in cooking and hosting her husband's professional guests during the four years she lived in Andhra Pradesh in the tobacco town of Guntur. "When we talk about street food in Kolkata, it is not region specific, it is a multicultural hot pot," says Misra, dressed in a sunny chiffon saree, flaunting a stone neck piece and a salt and pepper wavy bob.
Starting from the 18th century, Kolkata became a hub for commercial activity with people coming from India and all over the world to study or seek their fortune. "Most ethnicities tend to live in ghettos; the Chinese congregated around Tiretti Bazaar, Gujarati and Marwaris in Bhawanipur, the original Bengalis in south and there was a UP and Marwadi influence in the north," says Misra.
The thanda cha (Rs 395)
Take for instance, from Tiretti Bazaar, the menu represents prawn dumpling (R395), a delicacy by the Chinese sugar traders, dentists (and later asylum seekers during the Tibet unrest). Minced prawn balls tossed in corn flour sit on a dark honey and soy sauce.
One dish that deserves special mention here is the chicken rezala that weaves in the Awadhi influence, which came with cooks who tagged along with Wajad Ali Shah, when he took refuge in an area in Kolkata. Awadhi dishes are not as spicy as their Mughlai counterpart. "This we are planning to serve with a teen kona porota, which is thin and not greasy," explains Misra.
Iti Misra garnishes the dum aloo with chef Dheeraj Varma. Pics/Bipin Kokate
Eating on the streets of Kolkata is a history lesson, says Misra, what with each dish encompassing a story about people and a certain time in the city. "Each neighbourhood has a concentration of certain ethnic community, but one smart guy put his food on the street, and it picked up," says Misra, who brings bhekti from Kolkata.
The jhal muri masala too, comes from a vendor, Sajjan Stores at Vardaan Market on Camac Street, who has perfected the recipe for the past 50 years. "The blend is perfect, with spices, black salt, and garam masala. Along with the regular dalchini, dhaniya jeera powder and elaichi, they also add jaiphal and jaivitri," Misra points out.
While we listen in, we sip on a puchka pani caprioska (R350) that has the kick of vodka and gondhuraj lemons, the freshness of mint and chataka of puchka pani. The thanda cha (R350), again spiked with vodka, has star anise and spices infused Darjeeling tea.
To get started, Misra charted out a food map for Varma, who went to at least 25 iconic joints across the city. "Street food of Kolkata fits the philosophy of Monkey Bar that has small plates. While we have worked on our plating, the taste is as authentic as can be. The body of street food gets a monkey tail," he says. We've also found food joints across the city that serve similar fare.
Mughlai Porota
Esplanade, Camac Street
Mughlai Porota Rs 350
The Mughlai porota stuffed with keema and egg is a shahi treat. The spicy baby potatoes tossed in a panch phoran masala leave a zing on the palate. All roads lead to Bhima Calcutta Roll in Mumbai for their authentic version of Mughlai porota.
Get it here: Bhima Calcutta Roll, Azad Nagar, outside Gurudwara, Andheri (West)
Moong Daal Pakodi Chaat
Vardaan Market
Moong Daal Pakodi Chaat (Rs 225)
Inspired by Victoria Vada Chaat, which was visited by David Cameron in 2013, the deep-fried moong bhajias are dressed in a khatta tamarind chutney, a green-chillies laden teekha chutney, cold yogurt and embossed with juicy pomegranate jewels.
Fish Roll
Beadon Street
Fish Roll (Rs 445)
This British dish is inspired by Mitra Café. The aspirational Bengali, who never had access to British homes or clubs interpreted the food at cafes and tea shops. Varma's smoked fish fillets are stuffed with a curried shrimp paste. The grainy bread coating is crisp as an ironed shirt and breaks into a flaky fish stuffing that pairs beautifully with kasundi mayo and a desi carrot-cucumber 'salaad'.
Get it here: Hangla's, Shop No. 8, GK Marg, Lower Parel (West)
Pork Momos
Elgin Street
Pork Momos (Rs 295)
The plating of these pan-fried pork momos, made famous by a certain Fat Mama in China Town, has an interesting tweak on the Monkey Bar menu. The spicy tomato chutney transforms into a watery broth. The sweat beads are proof the dish retains its original fire.
Get it here: Thotrin Café, shop no. 2, CST Road, Jamlipada, Kalina
Go pandal gorging
The puja celebrations start from Maha Shashthi Day, which this year is October 15. Bhog is available during Durgapuja on Saptami, Maha Ashtami and Nabomi day only. Every year, Bombay Durga Bari Samiti (BDBS) pandal at Tejpal Hall in South Mumbai celebrates "Ghoroa" Puja, which means it has a distinctive "homely" atmosphere. This year, being the 89th year, they will create a mela theme, serving 29 food items from various states of India. You'll get your momos, ghoogni, spring rolls, and even jhal muri (spicy puffed rice).
For the Goddess, the offerings will include khichuri, fried and curry vegetables, dal, chutney and payasam. If you're planning a pandal-hopping spree, some popular pandals to add to your list include Chembur Durga Pooja Association, Powai Sarjobojanin Durgatsav and North Bombay Sarbojanin Durga Puja.
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