Coast tripping with the Kolis

At the time, Mahul was a sleepy village that had just woken up to the fact that flamingos had landed on its shores for the very first time.



Rajaram was so enamoured by the pink spectacle that he turned local guardian of these winged visitors, like any Koli would have, considering the deep bond the fisherfolk community shares with nature.

I set out from Mumbai to meet Rajaram's community who live along the Konkan coast.

My first halt was at Versoli, a little-known village that stands between popular weekend getaways Kashid and Alibaug, about 100 kilometres from Mumbai.
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Versoli has one of the most secluded beaches India can offer since it can only be accessed through meandering lanes of Koliwada.
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Here, every fishing boat, painted in delicious colours, is a work of art and bears the signature of its owner.

My next stop, Korlai was home to a community of about a thousand fisherman who speak a unique dialect Portuguese Creole.
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Readying for the big catch, at Kelus

It's a strange 260-year-old colonial legacy that has survived thanks to their insulation from the world outside.

Despite the spoken word that sets them apart, Korlai's kolis share cultural and religious traditions with their brothers living along the coast.
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Their faith in the Goddess of the Sea, or Jal Maayee as they lovingly call her, gives them the hope of returning safe to shore each time they head out into the unpredictable ocean.

A 7.5-hour drive from Korlai takes you to Kelus, near Vengurla on the southern tip of the Konkan coast.

This fishing village is wedged between the Kelus River and the ocean (the village and the beach have been named after the river).

The monsoon is perhaps the best time to experience Kelus if you want to witness a boxing bout between the rising river and the furious ocean welling up.
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The locals hear spend much of their time making giant dragnets.

Watching their dexterous hands weave a net out of nothing is a must-see sight, reminiscent of Samuel Johnson who said,"a fishing net is "many holes that have been stitched together!"

A Koli festival at Mahul

The village of Nivti, a 30-minute drive away, is the spot to experience deep-sea fishing.

A friendly fisherman named Arvind Maittar was my guide. The beach here is unusual because a creek lies where the beach ends.

The fishermen moor their boats in this creek, each one allotted a set parking lot. Nivti's fishermen go into sea only after sundown since they believe that the fish can see, and avoid dragnets during the day.
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Since we had set out in the afternoon, Maittar had warned me about not landing a catch.

We set sail from the jetty, and soon the safety of the shore seemed distant.

As the boat entered the deep sea, Maittar and his friends lifted the dragnet that lay at the bottom of the boat, and gradually unfolded it.

Then in what seems a choreographed move, they cast the net into the ocean in one smooth sweep, and waited.

As you wai there silently in the middle of an expanse of water, it's tough not to experience fear of the unknown.

Suddenly, the boat sawyed and I missed a heartbeat. Maiaittar signalled it was time to turn back.



They hauled the net out, and all we had was a single slender Silver Fish. In a gesture of generosity, Maittar flung the fish back into the ocean.

As the dark, pre-monsoon clouds gathered in the skies, and the wind picked up a frightening force, the boat tossed precariously. With a prayer on my lips, I watched Maittar row us back to the safety of the shore.u00a0

How to get there
BY ROAD: The total travel time from Mumbai-Vengurla is about 600 kms. It can be covered in 4 days. Break it down into three legs to get the maximum from each day.
1st leg: Mumbai-Alibaug, the distance is 115 kms. You can explore Versoli and Korlai in this part. This section can be covered on Day 1.u00a0
2nd leg: Alibaug-Guhagar, the distance is 325 kms. Discover Guhagar and halt here at the end of Day 2.
Last leg: The journey from Guhagar-Vengurla is a 175 km-stretch. Explore the villages of Kelus and Nivti and return to Vengurla, your base at the end of Day 3.u00a0
On Day 4, for your return drive, head to Malvan and Kolhapur and then hit the Expressway for a quick return, instead of taking the coastal road.

Must Carry
A large plastic bag to bring back all the plastic waste you will generate
Water and biscuits. You may not find a shop for miles
Binoculars since you may want to go bird spotting
Camera
Route map

Dos and Don'ts
Leave a place just as you found it: pristine and beautiful
Make friends with the fisher folk, be a part of their day-to-day living without intruding
Ask for directions when in doubt

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