A four-hour drive from Mumbai lies Bhandardara village that's turned into a quiet monsoon getaway thanks to an assembly of dhabdhabas that gush gracefully down every rocky edge
A four-hour drive from Mumbai lies Bhandardara village that's turned into a quiet monsoon getaway thanks to an assembly of dhabdhabas that gush gracefully down every rocky edge
Here, every blade of grass is a different shade of green. And every rocky edge insists on creating a waterfall.
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Bhandardara is where you should be on any weekend till the monsoon lasts, if taking in a deep breath of moist air is your definition of nirvana.
If you plan to drive down, it's best you start early since NH3 is not the smoothest road to zip down. 
The rains have wrecked havoc with the tarred highway, and it's impossible to manoeuvre potholes at night, especially when fog and rain play spoil sport. Get on NH3 via Thane.
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It's a straight road ahead, via Shahapur and Igatpuri. You can stop for a bite at Hotel Midway Park. They serve a great spicy Omelette Sandwich with Masala Chai, accept major debit/credit cards, and even stock up on wine.
Seven kms after Igatpuri, a right turn (with Hotel Kinara at the bend) will take you to the village of Ghoti. Avoid this one, and take the next right turn to Ghoti (signboard present).
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The road is a shade better. Once into Ghoti, take a left into the market, and 6 km down you will see a sign on your right that reads 'Bhandaradar-25 kms'.
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All milestones after this one are washed out, but there's nowhere you can go but straight ahead to where the MTDC and Anandvan Resorts stand.
What To Do
For the adventurous: You could trek up Kalsubai (3,000 feet), the highest peak in Maharashtra that served as an observation post during the Maratha wars.
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Legend has it that harassed by her in-laws, Kalsubai decided to flee far away so that they'd never track her down.
She hid in this mountain that the villagers named after her. Srushti Tours & Travels offers a trekking package you could explore. Call: 9822418849.
For the curious: The Amriteshwar Temple dedicated to Shiva was built in 1100 AD in the Hemadpanthi style. The road to this 30 feet tall rock-cut temple is a tricky one.
Two stone Nandis are positioned at the entrance, lined with ancient blue and yellow tiles.
A heavily sculpted ceiling and pillars lead you into the garbha griha (sanctum sanctorium), where the lingam rests (immersed in water during monsoon).
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Walk around the area to explore an ancient bawri (stepped stone well) protected by an orange painted Ganesha. The adivasis in a hut nearby, might agree to make you some garam chai.
For the nature lover: Necklace Falls, Nani Falls, Umbrella Falls, Radha Falls ufffd every nook has what the locals call a 'dhabdhaba'.
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There are so many, you can name one after yourself. The Spillway Gate is a must-see. The dam water rushes down a steep fall through a series of spokes, making it seem like an ocean is descending at your feet.
These, of course, pale in comparison to Randha Falls, where the overflow from the dam surges into a gorge past two tiny Ganpati temples balancing precariously on an edge, making it an ideal location for film shoots (Dhai Akshar Prem Ke and Raju Chacha).
The Ghorpad Devi Mandir next door is dedicated to the reptile that Shivaji used to scale fort walls. "When the sun comes out, they roam on the rocks here," said the tea stall owner nearby.
For the explorer: A Rs 20 ticket will lead you into the protected forest area of Ghatghar in Konkankada.
Visit the table land, deep valley and Panjre Falls (the safest one to bathe in) located along an adivasi basti littered with yellow Khurasni flowers and an occasional dancing peacock.
Where to stay
Bhandardara offers few lodging-boarding options. There's Amriteshwar Hotel, but we suggest you try either the MTDC resort or Anandvan Resort. MTDC's Lakeview Resort offers Deluxe rooms for Rs 1,600 (per night) while Lakeside cottages are available for Rs 3,000 (per night). For reservations, call: 22026713/7762.
Anandvan is a far more expensive but luxurious option. It has 12 independent suites, each with its own private garden. Garden Cottage Hill View for 2 nights (Rs 17, 900). www.anandvanresorts.com. Call: 09920311221
Meals
The MTDC's in-house restaurant serves veg and non-veg food at reasonable rates. For once, forget the Butter Chicken (which incidentally they also serve) and try some local fish. Katla is a meaty riverwater fish that tastes good crumb-fried. Jowar and bajri bhakri go well with local fare. Anandvan's The Oak restaurant serves veg and non-veg meals.
How to get there
By Car: 185 kms from Mumbai. Eastern Express Highway, via Thane on to NH3. Via Igatpuri, Ghoti to Bhandardara. It takes between four to five hours.
By Rail: Train to Igatpuri.
Must Carry
A comfortable pair of walking shoes
Windcheater or raincoat. An umbrella will prove useless.
Camera / handycam
Cardigan, shawl something light and warm. The temperature dips each time there's a shower.
Well-stocked bath kit
Handy Hint
It's preferable that you drive there in a van, jeep or an SUV. The ride will be less bumpy, and a small or luxury car won't let you access sites that lie on the other side of narrow roads punctuated by gushing streams.
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