Nature lovers' treat at Elephanta Island

World-famous for its historic rock-cut caves, Elephanta Island is also a naturalist's paradise, as Fiona Fernandez and photographer Bipin Kokate discovered

"You will have to climb 100 steps to reach the starting point of the trail," said Asif Khan, Associate Programme Officer, Bombay Natural History Society, on a boat that sliced its way through the calm waters of the Arabian Sea, on a crisp December morning. Gulp.



If I needed a wake up call at 8.30 am on a Sunday, this came close. The cool, fresh air filled the lungs as we left behind the fast-fading city skyline and the Gateway of India, as part of a 30-member group that set off on a bird watching trail organised by BNHS, to the Island.

Flight attendants at your service
Asif, with help from a second avian expert Vithoba, doled out fact after another about the birds we would spot, even as the group settled on the upper deck of the motor boat. Young families, forty-something professional birdwatchers and amateurs like us made up the motley group that had signed up for this trip.

"It's a perfect day for bird watching," Asif had uttered when a flock of Brown Headed Gulls announced their arrival, playing guide to the boat for half a kilometre. Cameras and binoculars surfaced quickly.

Soon, their Black Headed cousins joined in the flying party. We spotted some of them bobbing on the waters too. The term, sitting pretty, found literal meaning. Incidentally, seagulls sit on seawater during high tide. The Black Kite or the Common Kite, easily spotted in Mumbai, took over the skies from here onward.

This species, we were told, were predators who later turned scavengers because of the increase in garbage dumps in urban India. The start of the trip was turning out to be pleasantly productive. By now, Mumbai's outline had disappeared, giving way to gigantic tankers, rigs, luxury liners and speedboats even as Trombay, Navi Mumbai and parts of Raigad district played hide and seek from a distance, in the wintry haze.

Birds, i view
9.45am. The thickly forested outline of Elephanta or Gharapuri as it's called locally, would've pleased every nature lover. We got off at the pier, already crowded with a steady stream of two-way passenger traffic. A toy train was stationed on a narrow-gauge railway track, running parallel to our pathway.

It appeared to be a tourist attraction, and equally popular, just like its counterpart inside Borivali's National Park. Here, as if on autopilot, we were greeted with a flurry of feathered activity throughout our walk towards the starting point of our 100-step climb. Kingfishers, Pond Herons, Plovers, Magpies and Mudskippers (a fish that is found in marshlands) made an appearance on the mangrove swamp.

The climb to the top was an aberration. Colaba Causeway's sidewalk would pale in comparison to rows of stalls that sold everything from cheesy 'Indian' knick-knacks and garish apparel. Tacky restaurants serving Indian Chinese and 'chilld' beer added to this eyesore. Thankfully, this shopper's haven helped distract the reality that I was gasping for breath by Step No. 55. Egging myself for the larger goal that lay ahead, I reach my Everest, only to be appalled by the sight in front of me. The Elephanta Caves -- A World Heritage Site --reduced to a free-for-all; a neglected playground for the reckless.

Luckily, a far more appealing path was on our itinerary. Our bird watching trail circled the outer boundary of the Caves, leading us into a pathway towards a secluded forest tract. A few dos and don'ts were shared with the group. After all, here was a bunch of nature lovers who had "done" Bharatpur, Dajipur and numerous bird sanctuaries across the India.

As human chatter faded, calls and cries of another kind took over. First to be spotted were the Brahmi Kites, brazenly circling the sky above in rapid flight, the rarely spotted Red Whiskered Bulbul (with a peculiar tuft on its head), the Long Tailed Drongo and the Red Vented Bulbul also turned up, played hide and seek with the group.

Jungle talk
"As part of their tree-planting drives, many MNCs prefer the fast-growing Gulmohur trees. This particular tree isn't a favourite among birds," said Asif, as he briefed us about one of the reasons for the dwindling bird population in our towns and cities.

By now, most of the group had positioned themselves at the peripheral wall that overlooked a huge lake below. The Asian Paradise Flycatcher, the Magpie and the Small Minivet strutted their stuff over the huge water body. A brace of Duck Chicks seemed content with some R&R under the December sun.

We spotted a brood of Kites fly really low in search of their Sunday brunch. Their smooth and successful dive created a few ripples in this otherwise calm lake. En route we were treated to several species of butterfly including the Skipper, Wanderer, Pysche and the Baronet, wild Bhindi, Blister Beetles, and even an abandoned snakeskin.

We proceeded through a tiny hamlet where man and animal lived in harmony. Monkeys (Rhesus and Macaque) were at ease alongside village folk as well as domesticated fowls, roosters and dogs. Further ahead, we spotted wild buffalo. A clearing appeared and the sea resurfaced for a cool, expansive view. We had reached the other end of the island. A welcome break under a tree was the perfect spot to re-fuel and ponder in wonderment at how just a 90-minute boat ride away from a city starved of sparrows lay a bird-watching paradise.

Meet kotwal the mimic
Drongos are intriguing characters in the avian world. Bird watchers have dubbed them Kotwals because they fiercely guard their nesting homes as soon as they are made. They mimic a lot of birds too.

Whose Monkey is it anyway?
Rhesus monkeys are usually found north of the Narmada River. Bonnet and Macaques are found to the south. The reason that the Rhesus variety is widely seen across Maharashtra is thanks to monkey tamers who've been bringing them in from North India for years. Cross breeding between the Rhesus and the Bonnet or Macaque is common.

Winged salutations
A quick scan of butterfly names throws up an interesting list -- Commander, Viceroy and Colonel. Asif says it's because either British personnel or army officers discovered them. Incidentally, the British played a big role in documenting the flora and fauna of the Indian subcontinent.

How to raech
* Buy a one-way or return ticket from one of the many authorised tour operators at the Gateway of India. Launches depart every 30 minutes. Aim for a morning departure to enjoy the city's teasing winter. It's best to book in advance to avoid the tourist rush during peak season (October-March) and on weekends. Half a day is sufficient to cover the bird watching trail, even if you must spend time inside the caves.u00a0

OMG fact
* The pigeon that has become a common sight in our balconies is the Rock Pigeon. Its original nesting home is on cliffs and in natural crevices but rapid urbanisation has led it to haunt human habitat.