The growing popularity of elaborate nighttime skincare rituals has reached a crescendo with the Kardashians now hopping onto the trend. Experts separate logic from hype to give you the lowdown
The new face shapewear launched by (right) Kim Kardashian. Pics Courtesy/@SKIMS
If you thought the beauty tools pandemic had peaked with gua shas, facial rollers and at-home microdermabrasion rollers, think again. The quest for a more ‘snatched’ facial structure has reached new highs (or lows, depending on how you look at it) with the introduction of shapewear for your jawline. Not surprisingly, the brand in question is arguably the world’s most famous shapewear brand right now. But the face wrap is only the latest addition to a seemingly never-ending night-time skincare routine that’s taken over the Internet. From salmon sperm sheet masks to the controversial mouth taping, the list of ways to go to bed ugly to wake up pretty are only increasing.
Salmon sperm mask. Pic Courtesy/@soficastrejon; (right) The mouth taping trend claims to aid nose breathing. Pic Courtesy/@aurorawonderwomen
Tried, not tested
Multi-step routines have been making the rounds since the early days of the pandemic, when Korean beauty rituals began to take hold of skincare enthusiasts. But the newest entrants to the list feed into the notion that the quest for youth should be an arduous undertaking. As for the face compression wrap, which mimics medical wraps recommended to patients post facial surgeries, experts warn that the tightness (a result of reduced puffiness and slight lymphatic drainage) is only temporary. Similarly, though salmon sperm and red-light therapy have been found to boost collagen production, these findings are almost exclusively limited to clinical treatments. Finally, while mouth taping has been promoted as a shortcut to a more defined facial structure, any benefits have more to do with encouraging nose breathing — which may help improve aerobic performance and reduce snoring — over any aesthetic gains. All of these practices come with their own set of safety concerns which range from surface burns in the case of red-light masks to allergies.
“The truth is, most people don’t need such an elaborate or experimental routine to maintain healthy skin. Such trends often gain popularity through social media without much scientific backing for long-term efficacy. Some may have anecdotal benefits or be rooted in specific skin concerns; but for the average person, a consistent and well-formulated night-time routine is far more sustainable and impactful,” shares Dr Renuka Nalawade Rajale, consultant dermatologist and founder of My Dermat Clinic, Pune.
Dr Renuka Nalawade Rajale and Dr Satish Bhatia
Keep it simple
Dr Satish Bhatia, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetologist at Indian Cancer Society in Mumbai, emphasises that the simplest and most effective skincare routine involves washing your face at night with a gentle cleanser, followed by either retinol or bakuchiol-based night cream. Let this rest for a few minutes, before applying a moisturiser on top to maximise the effects of your night cream.
Dr Rajale adds that consistency is key if you want to see your skincare routine yield results. “Following a mild cleanser, add a treatment step depending on your skin needs — for instance, a hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid to treat dryness, a retinol-based product in the case of anti-aging or acne. Then, lock it with a hydrating lotion that aids in the natural nightly reparation of the skin. Individuals with specific concerns can add an eye cream or targeted treatment. However, in either case, the trick is not to layer too much. An effective bedtime ritual is not supposed to make your skin feel pulled, flushed and bewildered. Instead, it should feel refreshed, relaxed and well looked after,” she explains
Applying sunblock during the day is vital. Representation pic/iStock
Too much but not enough
“While exfoliation is wonderful for your skin, and frankly we all love that ultra-smooth feel we get after a gentle scrub, over-exfoliating your skin can cause uncontrolled microtraumas. This, in turn, may lead to clogged pores and secondary infection or even abscesses. Additionally, when using retinol products, a good sunblock during the day is essential. Retinol is also photosensitive; this means, if you leave your retinal products in the sunlight or use them in your morning routine, they might be less effective,” warns Dr Bhatia.
“Overdoing night-time skincare routines can do more harm than good. Patients tend to layer too many active ingredients on their face under the assumption that more is better, but this may cause irritation, sensitivity, redness or breakouts. A lot of on-the-job repair goes on in the skin when we are sleeping and calls of putting too many products on the skin or applying the tools not suited to the skin type will get in the way of this process. Also, the tendency to regularly change routines according to the fashion trends may negatively affect the skin barrier in the long term. A considered, bare bones regimen that actually addresses the needs of your skin, will do a lot more than keeping up with new trends,” Dr Rajale signs off.
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