Mumbai: Iconic eatery that invented Piyush may call it quits

Sevendecadeold Tambe Arogya Bhuvan helmed by 70yearold Hemamalini Tambe remains one of the few places that offers authentic Maharashtrian fare PicSneha KharabeDadar has had Tambe Arogya Bhuvan longer than India has had independence It was one of the few remaining places in the city where one could tuck into a satiating meal of Zunka Bhakri and Piyush under Rs 100 But like so many other landmarks in the city it wont be long before this iconic vegetarian Maharashtrian eatery is also lost to historyTo this day the preIndependence Tambe Arogya Bhuvan sits on the NC Kelkar Marg in Dadar its signage hidden under the Peepal tree frequented by actors and the regular Mumbaikar alikeEstablished in 1941 by Shankar Tambe today the eatery is run by the thirdgeneration of the family 70yearold Hemamalini Tambe who jokes But my husband wasnt DharmendraAlso read Mumbai food Relish batata vadas misal pav at this famous Dadar eateryThe takeaway counter at Tambe Arogya Bhuvan which overlooks the footpath on NC Kelkar MargIn the interest of safetyAge has taken its toll on the restaurant located near the Dadar kabutar khana on the ground floor of the Patil Niwas building which will soon go under redevelopment Pointing to a portion of exposed bricks she says You dont know when the ceiling will fall It is my responsibility to ensure the guests can enjoy their meal safely So the redevelopment is necessary But I havent thought about reopening Tambe Arogya Bhuvan in the new structure yet I would have aged by a few years tooAlso read Twodecade old Dadar eatery offers authentic tasty Malwani fareThe new building will take two years to complete said the builders Vikrant Brahme and Bhalchandra Wadnerkar The building is close to 80 years old We have received an NOC from MHADA and are in the process of getting other permissions Within two months it will go under redevelopment confirmed BrahmeA signboard hanging on a wall of the 650sqft nofrills eatery proclaims it as Grade II Eating House allotted by the Public Health DepartmentHemamalini Tambe with the staffers from left Mangesh Chandrakant and Ankush who have been working in the premises for over two decades PicShadab KhanPast forwardMarried into the Tambe family in 1962 Hemamalini neacutee Prabha joined the business back in 1982 While her fatherinlaw Sadashiv Tambe was instrumental in the sustenance of the eatery she has kept the legacy alive since he passed away four months ago at the age of 102 The eatery offers a traditional menu with popular items such as thalipeeth and zunka bhakri as well as seasonal specials like modaks kairi daal and aamras puriThis is also the home of the famous Maharashtrian drink piyush which was in fact first invented in the Tambe kitchen It was our family that created the recipe of piyush and called it so because of its piyushlike nectar taste Till date we only add nutmeg and saffron and no colour in it Our milk products were so popular that veteran actors like Ramesh and Seema Deo would come here to buy our loni butter and jalebi made using pure ghee said HemamaliniAlso read Centuryold Irani cafe B Merwan amp Co downs its shuttersIn fact the Tambes are responsible for shaping a considerable part of the citys food map other family members started the iconic Aram Restaurant at CST as well as B Tambe Ltd now known as Sujata Uphar Griha in Girgaum along with Kona supposedly the first Maharashtrian restaurant in the cityThe Maharashtrian eaterys bestsellers include clockwise from left Kothimbir Vadi Piyush Thalipeeth Zunka Bhakri with kachumbar centre and Kairi Dal PicsSneha KharabeMoney and space issuesI follow family recipes But due to inflation weve had to increase the prices A glass of Piyush that would cost Rs 12 in the 90s is now priced at Rs 36 We need to pay staff salaries too Sustaining the business has its challenges but neighbouring kirana stores have been supportive she saidAlso read Why Dadar eatery Cafe Colony is popular with MumbaikarsTambe Arogya Bhuvan employs 15 staffers some of whom have worked there for over two decades Will they be let go of when the restaurant shuts I plan to absorb them in my establishments which includes a new space where Im looking to expand my business says Hemamalinis nephew Kaustubh Tambe 36 thirdgeneration owner of Aram He informed that in the new structure his aunt will get a 1100sqft space but on the first floor Opening a restaurant there may not be feasible since there wont be an entrance from the road With the consent of my aunt we may turn it into a banquet hall he said while Hemamalini leaves it at Its too early to confirmThis is where piyush was first created and named for its nectarlike tasteA grim futureIn the last few years several longstanding eateries have fallen prey to the necessary evil of redevelopment A recent case in point Matungas famed Manis Lunch Home which fortunately found a new space in Chembur when the original building went under construction However at a steep rent of over Rs 15 lakh per month is Tambe Arogya Bhuvan also looking at a temporary relocation The high rents make it impossible to sustain a restaurant these days It would also mean setting it up from scratch and I dont know if my aunt would be up for it admits KaustubhAlso read The many legends of Mumbai that went the Cafe Samovar wayWhat makes things tougher is that Hemamalini is the sole torchbearer of the legacy Her son prefers to focus on his work as an Chartered Accountant With its future shrouded in uncertainty its time to make a trip to Tambe Arogya Bhuvan to mop up the wellseasoned zunka with fluffy rice flour bhakris or wash down crisp multigrain thalipeeth with the cooling piyush while you can