Ali Baba and his 400 hookahs

Smoking a hookah is cool. Ask Bhendi Bazar's popular dealer, the iconic Ali Baba for the spiel on the sheesha

Bhendi Bazar is like a dressed-down version of a Middle Eastern souk, minus the Lonely Planet-lugging firang tourist. The spectacular Mughal Masjid is a colourful oasis amidst old-time businesses, tour operators inviting the faithful to visit the Holy Land, Iran and Iraq, and fez-capped men heading for namaz. Dodging a few scurrying goats as we negotiated Imamwada Road, the mention of 'Ali Baba hookahwallah' lead us to the proprietor of Shiraz Enterprises.


Ali Baba smokes a 5.5 ft hookah at Shiraz Enterprises in Bhendi Bazaar.
Pics/Shadab Khan
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Settling on one of his Iranian carpets, a heady mix of flavours filled the air. "Two apples (apple, saunf), mint (perfect for summers), Paan Rasna, Paan Fantastic and Al Araz Gum (chewing gum-like) are the most popular hookah flavours," Ali Baba's baritone rises above the bustle outside. "I was the first dealer to start this business, in 1990. I supplied to Caf ufffd Mocha and Koyla, the only nightspots that kept hookahs then," he claims.

He procures the hookahs from Iran, Dubai, China and Moradabad (Uttar Pradesh). "My prices are lower than elsewhere and it's genuine custom-made maal ranging from Rs 90 to several thousands," he says, introducing us to the Titanic, a Sherlock Homesque pipe and Disco ball-inspired model that would get Bappida's approval.u00a0


This hookah gets our vote for the tiniest, most artful gifting option. It costs
only 90 bucks!

"I started this business because I wanted kids to switch from cigarettes to hookahs; it's healthier," he says, furiously puffing on an Indian-made cigarette while juggling calls on two cell phones. Pointing to a hand-painted miniature portrait on one of his pricier hookahs, he says, "That's Shah Abbas... In the 1800s, this royal was cured of asthma and liver problems after smoking the hookah." We get a crash course in the art of assembling a hookah ufffd "Five minutes, only. I've used materials like glass, stainless steel, even safety guards from a bike."u00a0u00a0


Not for sale: This hookah made from pure marble, is 103 years old and
displays designs in gold embossed paint and embedded genuine gemstones

The 3-in-one hookah has a holder for a cigarette, a hookah and can also
be smoked as a pipe

Ali Baba's shop also stocks carpets and agate stones from Iran, evil eye pendants from Turkey and gemstones.
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"Ex-CM Vilasrao Deshmukh bought his birthstone here before he contested for elections. State Government Secretary Usman Khan is my client."

By now, a mini entourage led by a local politician drop by for their afternoon cuppa. The hookah honcho leaves us with: "Businesses that serve sharab don't last long, but those that serve hookah with food profit." Wonder what the city's hookah parlour-hounding brigade would say.

Shiraz Enterprises, near Mughal Masjid, Imamwada Road.
Call: 64102849 to place orders.u00a0

DID YOU KNOW?
In Kashmir, the flavoured water from a hookah is poured outside the threshold of homes, to ward off evil.u00a0