Inspired by a fundamental British tradition, a Juhu-based baker is on a mission to popularise tea cakes with her homegrown business
Lemon Chiffon cake. Pics/Satej Shinde
In 2016, when Shraddha Mehta visited London on a family trip, there was one slice of British culture that piqued her curiosity: the tea time tradition. “I wanted to learn all about the delightful tea cakes—the different tastes and textures—that the city had to offer.” Mehta’s family runs a real estate business. Having lost her father early, the 38-year-old had no option but to dive in and learn the ropes. It’s been 10 years since she took on the responsibility. But, deep down, baking remained her first love. The assortments of scrummy scones and creamy mascarpone on hot teacakes was enough to awaken the dormant love.
That passion has now found expression in her fledgling home patisserie, Smāraa. “Like many, I found the courage to launch the business in the lockdown. I thought to myself, if not now, when? I had time on my hand, and one day, I went ahead and created an Instagram account.” The menu comprised the cakes that she had learnt to bake in the last three years. In order to get formal training, Mehta had signed up for a baking course at Dadar Catering College in 2014. And with that, she got her basics right.
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Cinnamon roll tea cake
So, what is a tea cake? By definition, this type of treat is “made from enriched dough that contains extra fats, eggs, sugar, and fruit,” according to The Independent. In fact, tea cakes are thought to be a refinement of the original ‘handbread’: a hand-shaped loaf made on a flat tin. Reports say that the earliest recorded version of a tea cake consisted of a Yorkshire teatime pastry, represented by a round baked bread roll served with Earl Grey tea. But over time, the original recipe underwent several mutations and even found their way to other cultures. The American tea cake was created over 200 years ago by African slaves in the southeastern United States. Tea cakes were initially made by plantation cooks for the guests of white slave owners, and were typically made with sugar, molasses, eggs, and vanilla when available.
Almond Florentine Tea Cake
By character, they are not meant to be as decadent and sweet as the birthday cakes we’re accustomed to. “They have a very distinct and unique taste. The same applies to the texture of the sponge. For instance, in the light and airy chiffon cakes, the egg yolk and oil is beaten into sugar, along with flour and other dry ingredients such as a leavening agent. The whites are whipped separately and then folded into the mixture,” explains Mehta. The other variety that she dabbles in is the Victoria sponge cake, a traditional British classic made up of a moist yet fluffy vanilla sponge cake filled with rich buttercream and fruity jam. Angel food cake, on the other hand, is a low-fat cake recipe made for diet conscious folks. It does not contain egg yolk, butter, or oil, so it is perfect for those watching their waist.
The Victoria sponge cake is a traditional, sugar-dusted British classic made up of a moist yet fluffy vanilla sponge cake filled with rich buttercream and fruity jam
The first cake that she launched commercially was the almond florentine, a buttery, moist cake topped with a crisp caramel layer with almond flakes. “This has been my bestseller because it caters to all age groups. But, the pineapple upside down cake does not play to the gallery. It has unusual ingredients like tamarind, desiccated coconut, chilli flakes and cinnamon.”
Shraddha Mehta
She has even experimented with seasonal ingredients such as mango and strawberries, and this Holi, she introduced the thandai cake. “You can endlessly experiment with tea cakes. They are incredibly versatile and don’t require waiting until after dinner to enjoy.” The Juhu resident has consciously stayed away from birthday cakes as there is no dearth of bakers specialising in the same. Her focus is to normalise the idea of tea cakes. “Here, we think of cakes only on occasions. But in the West, cakes are a part of daily life, something to be savoured with your regular cuppa.” She says the size of a teacake serving is usually small. Most cultures will serve a slice with tea. “These aren’t heavy on the palate. People call me up and say they were able to eat four slices without feeling stuffed.”
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