Grand Hyatt Celini's chef Fabio Mariella leaves for China making room for pal Alessandro Persico also from his hometown Genova. Both chefs spill the secrets of a good Italian meal
Grand Hyatt Celini's chef Fabio Mariella leaves for China making room for pal Alessandro Persico also from his hometown Genova. Both chefs spill the secrets of a good Italian meal
CHEESE and pasta are bad, bad words, if you open a weight-watcher's diet book, never mind that the world's most celebrated swimmer Michael Phelps practically lives on it. And when chef Fabio Mariella is asked about 'healthy food', he pats his stomach, shakes his head and proclaims his ardent love for bread.
Fabio may not believe much in diets, but his creations have become culinary talking points in Mumbai, a city where choices sometimes can be strangely limited. As the 'chef de cuisine' of Celini at the Grand Hyatt in Santacruz, considered by many as the best Italian restaurant in town, Fabio made sure his menu had the healthy stuff the salads, whole wheat penne, the baked trout etc. But given a choice, he would rather tuck into simple pasta and not worry about a bulging belly.
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With Celini, Fabio battled hard from the beginning to change perceptions about eating Italian food that pizza is not meant to look like a Frisbee, does not have to be draped and soaked in cheese and does not have to belong to an American take-away chain. "I wanted to show people here what traditional Italian food is. I have achieved some of that in what has also been an enriching experience," says Fabio.
The 29-year-old was raised in Genova, which is where he also knows Alessandro from. It was the latter, who first took his cooking skills abroad, to Las Vegas, and encouraged Fabio to follow. Three years later, and following a four-year stint in Hong Kong, Fabio joined Hyatt and came to Mumbai, not knowing what to expect. The only thing he knew was that the place looked good in pictures on the internet.
He immediately ruffled stomachs by making minestrone soup with pesto sauce instead of tomato. "It took some time before people accepted that this is how it is done in Italy and began liking it."
Soon, Fabio was getting calls on his cell phone with special requests. "I knew the regulars, what they wanted. So I would see them walk in and throw the garlic on the pan even before the order came. There are people who have been coming here for over two years and eaten the same thing every time!
"It was difficult initially to make the vegetarian dishes because Italian food is mostly non-vegetarian. Also, Indians like their food spicier. But then you have to listen to what your customer wants and adapt accordingly.
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If you want more mushrooms, I will give you more. If you like it hot, I will give you chilli flakes. My parents are from the southern part of Italy where the food is spicier. For example, my father always has a jar of red chillies ready to eat with every meal. So, in that sense it was slightly easier.
"Some requests would be unusual. But I would often encourage customers to try the traditional preparations. Our mission is also to educate people."
The flavour of Genova comes through in many of Fabio's creations, especially since much of the flour, meat and cheese are imported. Like the grain used in his 'spelt fettuccini', the rocket leaves for his salads come from a place close to his home. Over the years he has perfected the menu, which is now almost entirely based on his creations. But did he ever try to marry Indian and Italian recipes?
"Can not do it," he insists. "It would not work. Italian food, like Indian, is traditional. For example, a spaghetti bolognaise will remain the same. I once tried to put imported meat in the tandoor. It tasted all right but not good enough to be put on the menu.
"But I have learnt to appreciate Indian food while here. I had never eaten chicken tikka before, now I love it. Wherever I go in the world, if I order Indian food, I would know immediately if the food is authentic or not."
Ask him if there is a secret ingredient that would distinguish his cooking from the rest, and his already wide eyes widen further. He ponders for a moment, seemingly translating the English question into Italian and then the answer back to English. "No, the basics are the same, though everyone has their own style." Alessandro adds: "It's like Kung Fu Panda would say: There is no secret."
As the news of his imminent departure also ceases to be a secret, regulars like businessman Mahesh Valia are devastated. "He was the best in Mumbai and among the best in India. He would customise food for us; make fresh wheat pasta with lots of sauce, garlic and olive oil.
On occasions, he would come and ask us if we wanted something new. Not many places would do that. We will now have to go to China to eat his food."
Fresh-faced, youthful and with a ready smile, Fabio also breaks the stereotype of a temperamental Italian chef who screams 'Santa Maria' when something goes wrong. He admits to the occasional bouts of temper but insists that he is no Gordon Ramsey. His popularity among the staff and clients also came from his willingness to take feedback and experiment.
His colleagues recall that Fabio's brain was always whirring with ideas, creating recipes all the time in his head. Even when taking special requests, some say they could see him creating the dish in his head. They are now rallying to give him a rousing send-off, before he leaves on Tuesday.
No, Fabio assures, he would not be cooking at his own send-off.
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