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Ramp talk from Day One at Lakme Fashion Week

9 pm (Tuesday) > Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla
As Asha Bhosle and Bappi Lahiri's memorable chartbusters from the 1970s and 1980s blared over the loudspeakers, models took to the runway in ultra-glam gold-sequinned gowns that rivalled the shiny disco balls hanging from the ceiling. High on drama and bling, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s ode to the retro chic era with their latest collection, Jawani Jaaneman, was nothing short of entertaining and kick-started Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2015 with a bang on Tuesday evening.

A model in an airy Kaftan, one of the creations by Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla who opened the Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2015. PIC/SHADAB KHAN
A model in an airy Kaftan, one of the creations by Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla who opened the Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2015. Pic/Shadab Khan

While a few outfits (read: an all-gold men’s blazer and full-sequinned pants) looked visibly non-functional, we loved the detailing that went into most of the line. Packing in pleats, ruffles, bell sleeves and bell bottom pants, the collection comprised red carpet gowns, structured dresses, dhoti sarees, floor-length capes, jump suits as well as airy kaftans in their signature whites, beiges and ash grey.

A gold embellished sheer jacket from the same collection. PIC/SHADAB KHAN
A gold embellished sheer jacket from the same collection. Pic/Shadab Khan

Made from fabrics like Duchess Satin, organza and net, the outfits were heavily embellished with mirror work, lace, appliqué, crystals, metal studs, multi-coloured stones, bugle beads, sequins as well as bright floral motifs in thread embroidery. As the music veered to the international scene with Lipps Inc’s Funkytown, the designer duo showcased some of their more experimental creations that included structured gowns and dresses in blue, beige and black. We particularly loved the pretty checkered designs and a burst of pop colours in crepe paper like patterns on these outfits. Festive and funky, all the way.
— Krutika Behrawala

Print generation
12 pm > Gen Next  — Ajay Kumar, Charchit Bafna, Kriti Tula, Jebin Johny, Ishita Mangal, Shivangi Sahni and Siddhartha Bansal
Prints dominated the Gen Next show on Day One at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter Festive 2015. Ajay Kumar presented a men’s wear line with an array of digital prints ranging from florals to geometry.

Garments created by using  up-scaled industrial waste by Kriti Tula for her label Doodlage. PIC/BIPIN KOKATE
Garments created by using up-scaled industrial waste by Kriti Tula for her label Doodlage. Pic/Bipin Kokate

The loud prints were played on trousers, kurta and even bib shirts. Charchit Bafna took the androgynous route with a collection for both men and women. The main motif for print in this collection was the humble banana leaf. Jebin Johny had Kathakali and Japan’s Kabuki dance as a muse for print motifs. Kriti Tula took the idea of fashion for a cause to another level for her label Doodlage. The garments were created using up-scaled industrial waste.

A model sports an outfit designed by Charchit Bafna.  Pic/Bipin Kokate
A model sports an outfit designed by Charchit Bafna. Pic/Bipin Kokate

Ishita Mangal created a crime scene atmosphere with her collection, Misprison of Treason. Mainly straight silhouettes, the collection was a tad lacklustre. Shivangi Sahni offered a bohemian multi-layered line highlighted by thread embroidery. Siddhartha Bansal’s collection, Story Teller, had Hindu mythology for inspiration. With bovine goddess Kamadhenu as his muse, milk bottles, cow prints and gates of havelis saw in a clash of prints.

Make way for the winter bride
Payal Singhal’s collection, Maaya, was inspired by various ancient civilisations. On offer were the silhouettes used by the designer every season — drop-crotch dhotis, lehengas and palazzos. Also, seen again was the jali motif. The colour palette was subtle with dusty salmon, ice grey mixed with blocks of black. As usual, it was a wearable, festive collection that is not in your face. Nimrat Kaur (in pic) looked lovely in marsala red lehenga. Pic/Bipin Kokate

Nikhil Thampi’s show delivered what it promised — loads of sensuality through sheer, and flowy fabrics with a touch of his signature metal embellishment. While his metal obi-style belt made an appearance again, the floral laser cut metal accents were the highlight, holding different sections of the garment together.

Love and other things
3.30 pm > Huemn, Ilk and Quirk Box
Designer duo Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty’s label, Huemn, presented yet another dark collection with a few bursts of colour. Camouflage-style motifs were presented through a variety of surface texturing, be it with sequins or feathers. The Jungle Fever was also seen in a giraffe print shirt and trousers for men. Their velvet outfits with beaded embroidery were a big downer.

Models in multi-striped maxis, one of the highlights of Quirk Box’s collection, Love Story. Pic/Bipin Kokate
Models in multi-striped maxis, one of the highlights of Quirk Box’s collection, Love Story. Pic/Bipin Kokate

Shikha Grover and Vinita Adhikari’s label Ilk, took forward their love for 3D embellishments (which were seen in their Summer Resort collection). The highlight of this slot was Quirk Box. Designers Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev’s collection was all about love with geometric pixel hearts appearing through the collection in print and applique.

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