It’s hard to describe Diane Keaton’s glorious legacy as anything but iconic. The way she embraced and lived the mantra of ‘personal style’ was fearless. At a time when celebrity style is dictated largely by cookie-cutter micro-trends, her presence highlights how a compelling aesthetic can rewrite the rules of fashion, instead of being beholden to them.

So striking was her unmistakable look that she remains one of the few screen legends to borrow from her own wardrobe when dressing for her titular character in Annie Hall. Her red carpet moments bypassed frilly frocks for men’s suiting, and her ability to somehow make even the boxiest vests and pants feel feminine remains a skill worth studying and emulating.

“Diane Keaton’s influence on androgynous dressing and timeless tailoring will live on forever. Few women could make a suit look so effortlessly powerful, feminine and individual all at once. Her timeless style was defined by neutral palettes, structured silhouettes and a touch of playfulness,” shares designer Sanjana Bubber Divecha, who shares with us key wardrobe pieces from Keaton’s wardrobe that are androgynous must-haves.

Peaked-lapel tuxedo jacket

Keaton was partial to a classic black tuxedo jacket with a peaked satin lapel and Chinese collar. Today, it stands out as an expression of authority and quiet luxury. She often wore hers with a crisp white shirt, a wide belt and her signature jet-black bowler hat. If you’re keen to get your hands on a tuxedo jacket, Divecha recommends paying close attention to the fabric — lightweight or crepe wool that feels luxe but has a matte finish and drapes beautifully is a great option. “Keep your look monotone, black or white from head to toe, and let the tailoring speak for itself,” Divecha adds.

Patterns over solids

Keaton’s checked trench coat look, which she layered over a grey, two-toned wool suit and a black turtleneck at the Academy Awards, was striking, tonal, tailored and textural in equal parts. “Her genius was in the use of menswear fabrics and classic patterns such as checks, stripes and polka dots, and her styling that made them feel modern and feminine through belts, shoes and other structured accessories,” says Divecha. Without replicating the look to the tee, her formula can be emulated with a mostly neutral colour palette comprising black, white and beiges, and adding a textural or visual pop through chunky jewellery, a boutonnière or a polka-dot pocket square.

White Nehru jacket

Keaton’s all-white Nehru-collar, floor-length jacket is quite reminiscent of a sherwani, and she wore this layered over a pleated skirt. Her look was minimal and sculptural, and accented with a single string of pearls. Keaton wore this look to the Golden Globe Awards in 2004, during which she won Best Actress for her role in Something’s Gotta Give.

Other ways you can combine Indian and Western formalwear staples include:

Pick a sari in an unconventional pattern such as houndstooth, stripes or polka dots and add a bold belt to define your waist

Go monotone from head to toe and mix materials such as tweed, crepe, or seersucker.

Pair a satin sleeveless top or a turtleneck with simple yet statement accessories and menswear-inspired bottoms. Alternatively, wear a formal blazer and tie in matching fabric, with a fishtail skirt.

Unconventional three-piece suit

“A lesser-known but equally signature Keaton moment was her appearance in a striped seersucker three-piece suit. The beauty of seersucker lies in its texture — the puckered weave traps air, keeping it light and breathable. This fabric is perfect for warm or humid climates and day looks,” says Divecha. Keaton wore the suit with a matching tie and her signature thick belt, cinching the waist and balancing masculine tailoring with a feminine silhouette. Each element of the look can be styled in versatile ways — for instance, the striped blazer can be paired with white trousers and a pastel shirt, a straw bag and a hat.