Durga Puja 2026: Celebrate the festival with these unique traditional Indian weaves

File pic/Atul Kamble; Wikipedia; Parama; Sharoni Sen, @bipashabasu

With the city celebrating the arrival of Goddess Durga on Mahalaya on Saturday, the festive spirit calls for a wardrobe that respects tradition while embracing contemporary drapes. Beyond the different styles of sarees, it is the drape that keeps the tradition alive. We spoke to entrepreneur and saree connoisseur Sharoni Sen, who suggests looking beyond the Banarasi to traditional weaves from Bengal, Odisha and Tamil Nadu. From Jamdani motifs to Odisha's distinctive borders, choose from our picks to wear this pujo.

The classic Laal Paar

The Laal Paar Shari, which translates to a red-bordered saree, is a Bengali classic. Its familiar white body and red border make it a traditional choice for puja rituals and festive celebrations. Often paired with a red blouse, gold jewellery and a red bindi, the drape is particularly popular for occasions like Sindoor Khela and other Durga Puja rituals.

Dhakai Tangail

Combining Jamdani-inspired motifs with Bengal's Tangail weaving tradition, this saree offers a slightly more substantial drape than sheer muslin. Its intricate patterns and structured weave make it a versatile choice for festive occasions. The fine motifs, contrasting borders and its light weight make it suitable for every moment from daytime pandal visits to evening gatherings.

Sharoni Sen

For the experimentalists

For those keen to explore beyond Bengali weaves, Sen suggests Sungudi, Coimbatore and Chettinad sarees from Tamil Nadu. Each originates from a distinct weaving tradition and offers a different option for festive dressing.

Dhakai Jamdani

Originating in Dhaka, the Dhakai Jamdani is known for its lightweight fabric and intricate hand woven motifs. The weave has a long history, dating back to the Mughal era. Its Persian-derived name combines ‘jam,' meaning flower, and ‘dani,' meaning vase or container. Rather than being printed, the motifs are woven into the fabric. Sen advises preserving an original piece, as authentic Dhakai Jamdani can be difficult to source.

Odisha Kotki

Also known as the Cuttack saree, Kotki sarees are distinguished by their ikat patterns, created through a resist-dyeing technique before weaving. Their geometric motifs and intricate borders often draw inspiration from Odisha's cultural heritage, including the chariot wheels of the Konark Sun Temple. The mix of traditional patterns and vibrant colours gives these handloom sarees a distinctive identity, making them an interesting alternative to the familiar Bengali drapes.

Jewellery code

Sen suggests simple looks, and exploring accessories crafted by tribal communities and local artisans. These traditional elements add texture and character to a saree without competing with its weave. Options include:

Oxidised silver; Terracotta; Jute; Bamboo

Oxidised silver
Terracotta
Brass
Bamboo
Jute

On the saree trail

. Bengal Handloom Centre
At Padmavati Kripa Building, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Goregaon West.
Call 8779383675

. Handloom Centre
At Kalakar Kanubhai Desai Marg, Santacruz Railway Station Road, Santacruz West.
Call 26487970

. Saree Ghar
At Shop Number 6, N Mercantile Building, Ranade Road, near Nakshatra, Dadar West.
Call 8369861331

. Kalaniketan
At Veer Nariman, Opposite Churchgate Station, Churchgate. (Also at Juhu)
Call 9555779999

. Bailou Bombay
At Ground Floor, Tanna House, opposite YMCA,
Scindia Society, Police Colony, Apollo Bunder, Colaba.
Call 8902495900

. ParamaCalcutta
Log on to paramacalcutta.com

. Balaram Saha
Log on to balaramsaha.com