Rapper Mahi G recounts arrival in protest-hit Kathmandu in Nepal

A screengrab of a video of a scene witnessed by the artiste, where scores of young protesters took to the streets last week (right) Rapper Mahi G at Kathmandu in Nepal. PICS/BY SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

For 28-year-old rapper Madhura Ghane, aka Mahi G, what was supposed to be a routine performance trip turned into a brush with history. The artist, who uses her art to educate people about Babasaheb Ambedkar, farmers' protests, trans rights and the environment, had travelled to Nepal earlier this month. She returned not only with memories of her shows, but also with the indelible imprint of a nation in turmoil - a youth-led uprising that has shaken its political foundations.

Mahi landed in Kathmandu on the night of September 7. "At the airport, there was already speculation about certain apps being banned in the country," she recalled. "But as we drove through the city, everything looked normal." She was put up at the Hotel Manaslu, barely five minutes from the Hilton and around three kilometres from Nepal's Federal Parliament.

Mood shift

The following morning, September 8, she and fellow rapper Rapboss performed at the Asia-Pacific regional conference of Public International Services. The first half of the day was smooth. But on the way to another evening engagement, the mood shifted. "We noticed an unusual traffic jam. At first, we thought it was normal city congestion, but then we heard that students had been shot dead by the police during protests. That's when it became clear that things were not so normal anymore," she said.

A screengrab of a video of a scene witnessed by rapper Mahi G during her trip to Kathmandu, Nepal. PICS/BY SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

By the next morning, the situation had worsened. Mahi and other performers from the Asia-Pacific delegation had planned to step out and see Kathmandu. At the hotel reception, however, they were informed of an official curfew. "From the hotel, we could see helicopters flying overhead, tyres burning, people screaming, and the sound of bullets. We also saw smoke rising from the Parliament building and the Hilton, which had been set on fire. But inside, we felt safe," she recounted. "The hotel staff and our Nepali hosts kept assuring us that the protesters would not harm civilians."

The curfew also led to the cancellation of her September 10 flight. "That night, since we were all grounded, performers from different countries - Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Pakistan - sat together and spoke about the changes we wanted in our own countries," she said. "It became a collective sharing of frustrations and hopes, across borders."

One detail that particularly struck her was the mention of Balen Shah. "Earlier, Nepali youth I spoke to had joked with me that their mayor was also a rapper. They spoke of him with pride. To then see his name flash across the news, after [former Nepal Prime Minister] Oli resigned, was surreal," she said.

Mahi G, rapper

On September 11, with the curfew finally lifted, her hotel arranged a vehicle to take the artistes to the airport. "We passed through multiple military checkpoints before reaching. The airport was more crowded than a Mumbai railway station at rush hour," she remembered. "But we made it onto the flight and landed safely in India."

Back home, her family was deeply anxious throughout the trip. "My parents and my siblings - two brothers and a sister - kept calling constantly," Mahi said. "They were glued to the news and worried about my safety."

Rapper's reflections

Yet she insists she never felt unsafe. "At no point did I think my life was in danger. The protesters were focused on their fight against corruption and unemployment, not on harming outsiders," she said. Instead, what she took away was a sense of inspiration. "It's so easy to divert, but so difficult and important to unite people. Nepal's youth did that. It would be great to see the youth in our country unite for development, too."

Mahi's fellow performers from Bangladesh shared stories of similar protests that had rocked their country, deepening her sense that young people across South Asia are rising against entrenched systems. For Mahi, the experience was transformative. "Through my rap, I let out my anger at what I see around me in India. But it's not just about anger - it's about the change I want to see," she said. "What I witnessed in Nepal showed me how powerful young people can be when they come together."