The insider-outsider city trail

Cafe Mondegar, a landmark and tourist attraction in Colaba. Pic/Fiona Fernandez

Soon after a family wedding, of which we were a part, had wrapped up, we comfortably slipped into our city guide avatar for visiting cousins. Despite the hectic schedule that comes with big-ticket shaadis, it was a breeze as compared to navigating multiple task-lists while sporting three-inch heels!

As it turned out, these relatives had their fair share of memories from their time as professionals in the city at some point in their lives. For many, this visit was after ages, so their references to the ‘then' and ‘now' proved insightful. The wish list was like The Wonder Years, as one remarked towards the end of this curated Mumbai Darshan.

Cafe Mondegar was the unanimous choice. They were keen to relive those moments (perhaps, sans the madness!) with their spouses and kids. The Gateway of India and Marine Drive were predictable inclusions. With two middle schoolers (their kids) tagging along, the younger generations' reactions later made for cool observations too. We reached the quiet stretch near the otherwise busy Kala Ghoda before walking towards Apollo Bunder. While the Chhatrapati Shivaji Vastu Sangrahalaya was shut for Diwali (a miss, for our junior target audience), halts like the INS Vikrant model on a traffic island, the Maharashtra State Police Headquarters and the adjacent Wellington Fountain offered several frame-worthy opportunities.

Before we could settle down for the return pilgrimage to ‘Mondeez', the walk down CSMT Marg, to catch a glimpse of the Gateway beckoned. "What's with such massive crowds!" one of my cousins exclaimed, noticing a dramatic shift in numbers. Somehow, we jostled our way, crossing a wobbly ramp that led us to the landmark. "A lot has changed! I remember riding on a bike all the way up to here," he sighed, while indicating the point where he and his friends had biked up to get a closer look at the landmark. Yes, that was a long, long time ago, I reminded him. Managing the picture postcard frame with the structure in the background, and without disruptors, wasn't easy. Gazing at the city's most famous landmark was no longer a walk in the park.

Soon, we realised that the exit point was also via the same rickety ramp. It called for some serious navigating alongside the teeming, now-doubled crowds. As a city-worrier, we hope that the powers-that-be have a solution-based, executable blueprint to make it a visitor-friendly site. It wasn't for us, and we could tell that our guests did not expect this kind of a hurried experience while on their return yatra.

Thankfully, our timing to enter Cafe Mondegar after the challenging episode was perfect, given that we managed to bag one of the coveted tables overlooking the streetscape on the arterial Lansdowne Road. The recollections rolled out as quickly as the jukebox belted out songs from its retro playlist. From old-time favourites like Keema Pao and Garlic Bread, to Fish and Chips, two generations did justice to the menu. Gradually, it became clear how such spaces emerge as iconic to out-of-towners. It joins the dots to their favourite moments while in the city. There were other warm vignettes as well - the jukebox selection, beer-laced chuckles, the souvenir T-shirt, and yes, the equally iconic cityscape tribute captured by Mario Miranda that drew praise from all at the table. A sweet gesture from the waiting staff for the kids in the form of candy bars added a thoughtful touch to the ‘landmark return.'

Well-tanked up, we headed towards Marine Drive for a seaside sign-off. Walking down the pavements drew reminisces that yo-yoed from hilarious drunk dialling episodes, to soaking in the stone masonry of the David Sassoon Library and Reading Room. The Victorian Gothic ensemble, including the University campus (and the Rajabai Clock Tower) and the Bombay High Court, made for the ideal mini classroom to share factoids with our young friends; the artfully-lit-up ensemble did its bit to increase the wow factor, as did the Western Railways headquarters and the restored Eros building. However, our joy was short-lived, as we approached the promenade. Crowds similar to those at the Gateway greeted us. While the Queen's Necklace didn't disappoint with its dazzle and shimmer, the sea of humanity was a sight to behold and I guess, would have created an impression on the young and not-so-young in ways that we will be reminded of, possibly on their next visit. Most Bombaywallahs love their ice cream; there exists an inexplicable urge to indulge in it each time the sea is in view. We were keen that the group bid goodbye to the city on an icy, saccharine note.

Trail done, it got us thinking that a rich, landmark-filled city like ours is all about the memories, even for its visitors. Except that the script is a bit different. Some of us might not even ‘get' their Bombay-Mumbai meri jaan moment. But it's special enough to treasure, as well as share with their children, as we witnessed. That we believe is the definitive, most democratic way that underlines why we continue to call ours an iconic city.

mid-day's Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city's sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana
Send your feedback to mailbag@mid-day.com
The views expressed in this column are the individual's and don't represent those of the paper.