02 August,2026 09:04 AM IST | Mumbai | Tanisha Banerjee
My beautiful mother at the Rock Beach
Puducherry, formerly known as Pondicherry, greets you at its own pace. I visited in the off-season with my family, when the humidity lingered in the air, but coming from Mumbai, it felt like a gentler. The abundance of trees, calmer streets, and noticeably cleaner air made the weather far more bearable.
Even though a trip like this is famous for a solo or friends' travel, Puducherry can also give you a warm, relaxing family time as well. The place has a bit for everyone. For my father who enjoys taking things in slowly, the walking space at Rock Beach was his calling. My mother, a fan of French cuisine and photogenic places, every nook and cranny of White Town served as a beautiful backdrop to her pictures. Similarly for my brother and I, always itching to walk around and explore the streets and buildings, this was a perfect rendition of everything.
We spent five days between White Town and Auroville. White Town, the city's iconic French Quarter, feels like a slice of Europe preserved in India. Colonial buildings, heritage façades, and streets bearing French names such as Rue de Bussy and Rue Suffren transport you to another era. We stayed at the heritage Grand Hotel d'Europe. The vehicle-free promenade stretching along Rock Beach offers one of the city's most charming experiences, remaining open to visitors around the clock.
There are flights from Mumbai to Chennai from where Puducherry is 3 hours away by road. Hotels range from Rs 9000 per night for one room
Hidden away on the edge of White Town is The Paris Restaurant. Open since 1978, this modest eatery has built a loyal following for its Vietnamese cuisine. The chicken noodle broth is comforting, while newer additions like the Vietnamese Chaiyo and Beef Steak are worth it. Unlike White Town's polished cafés, it is small, dimly lit, and tucked away in a shady area. The prices are budget-friendly and the Vietnamese artwork and chinaware add to its old-world charm.
One of the misconceptions about Puducherry is that it is simply "another Goa." It isn't. Most restaurants wrap up by 10 pm, with very few open beyond 11 pm. The dress culture is relaxed but not as carefree. Women may prefer to dress with some awareness to avoid unwanted attention. Or you can just live your vacation the way you want which is what I did.
Auroville replaces colonial streets with dense greenery. Even if you spend a day here, the town offers you a welcome pause. The Auroville Matrimandir is worth seeing but be prepared to walk for 40 minutes to just catch a glimpse of the meditative temple.
The most unexpected joy of our trip came from something so simple like collecting seashells. Paradise Beach, reached by a short ferry ride, was scattered with enormous shells, while Auroville Beach became a treasure hunt for the big, quirky ones. The waves never made it easy. It felt like playing kabaddi with the sea. Before long, my dad joined in, and together we spent an hour or two chasing waves and comparing our finds. We returned with pockets full of shells, a few bruises from the rocks, and memories I'll always treasure.
Puducherry's food scene is best enjoyed with curiosity rather than a fixed itinerary. Our seafood trail began even before we reached the city, at Sanatana Beach Restaurant in nearby Mahabalipuram (formerly known as Mamallapuram), where we had a whole red snapper, fresh, and beautifully cooked. Over the next few days, we worked our way through seer fish, squid, prawns, and an endless variety of crab. The flavours were layered with aromatic local masalas that looked fiery but never overpowered the taste of seafood.
For something different, Café Cherrypond serves an inventive blend of French and Tamil flavours, while Café des Arts is perfect for breakfast, with charming heritage interiors and crêpes worth returning for.
The standout moment came at Virunthombal Chettinadu Restaurant on the Puducherry to Chennai highway. We asked for local food and the server smiled, "You rest. I'll give you what you want." What followed was a feast that extended well beyond the menu - fried squid, chicken fry, prawns, tiny river fish, crab, rice, sambar, rasam, and seasonal vegetable preparations. Four of us ate until we could barely move, yet the bill came to around Rs 4000. My father, the biggest foodie among us, left with a broad smile and a generous tip for the attentive server.
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