28 June,2026 10:20 AM IST | Mumbai | Fiona Fernandez
Container ships headed to and from Kolkata port are a common sight. pics/FIONA FERNANDEZ, taj ganga kutir
Zubin Mehta would possibly approve of the natural setting of this concerto. The Ganges is the riverine conductor. Rickety country boats, mechanised trawlers and steamships are the instrumentalists. All day, like a philharmonic orchestra in full range, they sync to the ebb and flow of the mighty river at Raichak.
The organic orchestra amidst the cocooned calm that we experience as part-writer, part-holidayer, is at the Taj Ganga Kutir Resort & Spa, Raichak, located two-and-a-half hours away from the bustle of Kolkata. It's where she is in her magnificent, final stretch, before meeting the Bay of Bengal. Raichak has a storied charm, we soon learn from our knowledgeable guide, as we walk around sections of the expansive property; the river is by our side like a lover who simply won't leave our sight. Once a fishing community, it had a citadel, was a colonist outpost for jute trade established by the East India Company, and a key harbour.
Pan-Seared Bhetki
Cut to the present. There's a lot to soak in for those seeking creative nourishment; light-bulb moments click to craft a manuscript, or overcome the dreaded writers' block. Vignettes of its 18th century fort ramparts, sleepy fishing hamlets and rustic countryside offer sufficient fodder. A fable woven around a certain General Watson, a vessel called Sea Queen and a recovered letter from a daughter, draw our attention. The lines between fact and fiction are teasingly blurred. It's common lore in these parts. Notes are jotted down in our pocket diary. Who knows? It might offer inspiration for that final flourish.
Ganga aarti
By sunset, the magical, soothing chants of the aarti performed by the river's edge against overcast skies, waft across the property. Sip on chai by the deck to immerse in the momentary spiritual sanctuary. Later, for the perfect sundowner, perch yourself by the bar at the Riverview Lounge. Here, we nurse on the Mango Picante, our loyal companion amidst views of an ominously cloudy night. The Reposado tequila cocktail is flavoured with puree and syrup extracted from the local Himsagar mango, and along with the Gondhoraj lime, does a citrusy dance on the palate.
View after rains
Throughout our time, the efficient staff organically glide in and out of our frame, offering hospitality and privacy in equal measure. Dinner at the House of Ming, is an exquisite Oriental culinary showcase, featuring Szechwan, Cantonese, and Hunan cuisines. On the flipside, it dissolves any hope to attempt our nocturnal writing routine.
Sunset from Raichak Jetty
By day two, the relaxed setting offers scope for our storyline to progress, much like the resilient bobbing trawlers. Words flow - sometimes gently, otherwise, in a flurry. In the distance, the whirring motors of passenger boats remind us to add colour and life to our characters. Lunch beckons; it's a ginormous feast, the Zamindari Thali at The Machan. It has all the components to usher in a siesta soon after. Thankfully, the writing gods and the rain gods oblige, offering a dreamy backdrop to take our story forward. Dinnertime on our final night is at the al fresco sit-out by The Machan. It's not hilsa season but the Pan-Seared Bhetki dressed in a Beurre Blanc sauce gives us a relishing sign-off, with the meandering river for company, much like how our storyline moved.
Map/Suhas Kale
Serendipitously, Billy Joel's River of Dreams pops up on our playlist the next morning, before our departure. Its concluding lines sum up our writing weekend escape: â¦We all end in the ocean/ We all start in the streams/ We're all carried along/ By the river of dreams.
LEARN: Mess around at the on-property pottery studio, and create a cool handmade memory
EXPLORE: Head to the Raichak Jetty by 5 pm to catch the sunset. It gives you sufficient time to soak in the sights, smells and sounds of the community, and the river from close.
The hotel's citadel-like façades were built from 1000 truckloads of bricks that were recovered after the old Imperial Bank of India (today's State Bank of India) on Kolkata's Strand Road was demolished!
We are looking to visit and write about interesting places of stay and travel, near and far. If you wish to host us for a fair, engaging experience review, write to us at smdmail@mid-day.com