Kanika Sharma scouts for heady aromatic concoctions from various communities across the state, to understand how through the same spices, magic is created in every household
Goda or Kala masala: Goda masala is particular to the Brahmin community. As per Santosh Khamkar, of RB Khamkar & Sons, Lalbaug, “Coriander is the overarching flavour.” Mohsina Mukaddam, food historian at Ramnarain Ruia College, tells us, “Summers are the best time to dry the chillis and get the garam masala grounded.” Garlic is avoided in the masala as per the community’s diet norms. The masala is darkish in colour (as seen in the picture) which is due to “the addition of dagad phool (lichen)” according to Saee Koranne, food blogger. The spice gives the masala an earthy flavour and colour. She adds, “The addition of eel-roasted dried coco-nut also contributes to a slightly nutty aroma called khamang that a discerning Maharash-trian palate looks out for.” Koranne also tells us that it is often used along with a souring agent such as kokum or tamarind and jaggery for balance. Common uses of the masala are: traditional Aamti (daal) and Bharli Vaangi.
Masala Menu: (Anti-clockwise): Goda masala (brown in colour), Malwan masala, fish masala, Sunday masala, Kolhapuri masala with turmeric powder in the middle.
Kolhapuri Masala: Kolhapuri red chillis or Lavangi are world-famous for their fiery nature and characterise this masala. In Koranne’s words, the spice mix is slightly “clumpy” and comprises roasted garlic and onions counterbalanced by hot spices. Koranne further shares, “The masala is famously used in Kolhapuri Misal with a “kut” or thin broth that shimmers with the oily slick of the spice mix as well as a few traditional vegetable and goat meat preparations.” In Kolhapuri Tambada Rassa — as Chef Vijay Malhotra of ITC’s Peshwa Pavilion shares — Bedgi chillis are another particularity.
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The RB Khamkar and Sons store boasts of Malwani, Konkani, Agri, Ghati, Saoji, Goda/Kala, Koli, CKP and fish masala. Pics/Sayed Sameer Abedi
Malwani masala: Black pepper is a unanimously overpowering agent in Malwani cuisine of the Konkan region. Khamkar shares that poppy seeds act as a counter-balancing flavour. Koranne informs, “What contributes to the well-rounded flavours of these curries is the Malwani masala, a garam-masala style spice mix that is set apart with the addition of lichen as well as cobra saffron and surprisingly, a hint of the sweet spice, nutmeg. These are lightly roasted and ground together and added to non-vegetarian preparations. Common uses include Chicken Sukka.”
Koli masala: The fisherfolk of the Western coast are primarily Kolis and Agris, according to Khamkar. The former add cinnamon, sesame and cumin seeds generously while the Agris avoid aniseeds. Koranne avers, “They make a hot blend of 18 odd spices to add flavour, heat, and body to their otherwise sparse fish and vegetable curries. These act as excellent marinades in combination with freshly grated coconut.” Prawns Koliwada and Pomfret Fry are made with this masala.
Saoji masala: “Varhadi or Saoji cuisine, from the central regions of Maharashtra (a major portion of which is Nagpur) is known for its intensely spiced non-vegetarian fare,” says Koranne. Known for its hot nature, poppy seeds and coconut are added to dull this mix. Saoji mutton is famous with this masala.
Mutton Special Thali at Mi Maratha restaurant at Lower Parel specialises in Maharashtrian fare. (Anti-clockwise): Mutton Sukha (Kolhapur), Tambada Rassa (Kolhapur), Usal (across the state), Pandhra Rassa (Kolhapur), Mutton Kheema (Irani addition) and Sol Kadi (Konkan) with raita, three chapattis and rice. .
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