Go kingfisher-spotting in the desert

The tree house resort, cradled in the folds of the aravalis in the semi-arid outskirts of Jaipur, is a miracle land with over seven lakh trees that attract over 50 species of birds. Bird lovers, including PM Manmohan Singh's family, throng the place too

Right outside the arrival gate of the Jaipur Airport is a 24/7 restobar called Tehkhana (literal translation: gaol), which provided us with random, amusing mental images of hapless tourists being tortured in a jail, while waiting for the hotel pick-up. Thankfully, before details of the torture could be worked out, the driver arrived, apologising profusely for the delay. After zipping across the market area of the city presumably only to run errands (the resort is about 45 km from the main city and the car comes to town barely once a day), we finally hit the highway.

Type: nature trail
Best from: jaipur
You need: 2 days

Roadside stalls selling Kachoris and Dahi Vadas, camel carts parked outside swanky malls, a gleaming marble temple and tiny hillocks ravaged by years of mining gave way to wider fields, marble workshops and the sprawling countryside. The massive Nahargarh Fort, Jaigarh Fort and Amer Palace, where once the Rajput Maharajas lived with their families, hugged mountaintops at a distance.

Our destination, however, was located still further and we drove on towards Delhi, passing rugged hills different from the Sahyadris we are used to. Eventually, the car took a turn around and entered a path off the highway that led us to Nature Farms. The Tree House Resort is located in the centre of the property.

Cliche crusher
The first thing we noticed about the resort was the absence of the regular pattern we have learnt to associate with Rajasthan. There was no fake haveli-style construction, no handle-bar moustachioed bellman and (thank heavens) no pretentious Ghoomar performers and loud 'Ram Ram Sa' welcome. Instead, a front-desk manager beamed a smile while juggling calls behind a majestic restored Banyan-root desk. Mukesh Chander, general manager of the resort, escorted us to the Imperial Eagle Nest (all 20 tree houses here are named after birds often spotted at the resort) and welcome drinks followed.

Except for the recently-opened curios store, no other of the area of the resort plays ambient music. Differentiating one birdcall from another is a serious matter here and guests actually take pride in being able to recognise birds simply by sound. The supremely comfortable tree houses were largely occupied by birding enthusiasts from across the country and young couples from Delhi wanting a quick getaway. The intimate, maze-like resort beckons even the idlest visitor to take a walk around the narrow pathways.

The place is designed in such a way as to have you surrounded by trees at all times -- there is an open air auditorium attached to the dining gazebos, each tree house has an adjoining lawn area and the indoor restaurant too provides a panoramic view of tree tops. With all that therapeutic green around you, it's little wonder that a sense of benign wonderment fills your heart while you're there.

Since it was monsoon when we visited, most of the feathered variety kept its distance, but we did manage a short nature trail around the property where we spotted kingfishers and peacocks. Keen birdwatchers who were preoccupied with training their camera lens and binoculars into the distance, however, came back with tales of the Indian Nightjar. And we hear that in the peak birdwatching months, you can spot Rofous Tailed Larks, Falcons, Oriental Buzzards and White Throated Fantails. Bird lovers also head here for the Spotted Creeper, which was seen in India after nearly seven years.

More to do
If you're the restless sort that insists on doing something even on a leisurely holiday, the resort has a billiards room that can host professional tournaments, a tribal archery area, and a swimming pool. On request, the staff can arrange for camel rides, jungle safaris (not in the monsoon months) and, cycling trips and nature trails in the bordering Aravali forest.

The most interesting feature of the resort is the centuries-old Peacock Bar. The intricately carved wooden structure, which reflects the blending of both Hindu and Mughal elements, has been carefully restored. Apparently, the structure was constructed for a Rajput princess by Mughal artisans, which explains the amalgamation.

Today, it houses the magnificent Peacock Bar where the bartender Kallu serves a heady Bloody Mary along with flavoured Sheeshas. As the evening wore on, we stayed firmly put. Engulfed by the sounds of birdcalls, frogs plopping into the tiny pool and indulging in a long-winding conversation, we could not have asked for a better getaway. The reporter's trip was sponsored by The Tree House Resort

Lessons in ecology
The tropical forest-style setting of the Tree House Resort is quite literally, a natural marvel. Only seven years ago, the entire area was a barren land. Sunil Mehta, real estate entrepreneur and an ardent nature lover, started off with just one tree house -- the Woodpecker Nest -- which was meant to be a personal farmhouse.

The concept clicked and Mehta was besieged with requests for renting out the treehouse. That's when the idea to expand the place into a resort germinated and along with friend and business partner Uttam Tharyamal, plans were put in place. The aim is to plant one million trees around the property, out of which seven lakh have already been planted. In keeping with their love for nature, the resort has grown organically, without an architect or landscape planner.

Must eats in Jaipur
A visit around the imposing forts and palaces of Jaipur and a stroll around the marketplace is the mandatory touristy thing to do. But the pink city is also a foodie's delight. Ghevar, a north Indian look alike of Mysore Pak, is a Marwari speciality that has to be tried. Our driver-cum-guide, Arjun, drove us to Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar (better known as LMB Hotel), which was packed to the brim with weekend visitors ordering Ghevar by the kilos. The ghee-dripping sweet melted in the mouth within seconds of arriving on the table.

The next stop was Rawat Mishthan Bhandar for their supremely famous Pyaz ki Kachori. As we stepped out of the car, Arjun warned us to get back in time to catch the flight back home. Inside, the restaurant was packed with people digging into kachoris dunked in green chutney. Takeaway orders were being placed by the dozens.

After a good 15-minute wait we finally got a bite of the giant, crisp kachori, which essentially has a tangy potato and onion filling. Back in the car, Arjun told us how lucky we were to be able to taste the kachori. Apparently, guests have waited for over an hour for their order and yet returned empty handed.

Getting there
The Tree House Resort is located 45 kms from Jaipur on National Highway 8 and about 3 hours away from New Delhi. The resort is just a 15-minute drive away from the historical Amer Palace and Nahargarh (Tiger) Fort. An hour-long drive from the Tree House Resort takes you to Project Tiger Sariska National Park and the ancient twin cities of Ajabgarh and Bhangarh. The nearest airports are Sanganer International Airport (45 km) in Jaipur and Indira Gandhi International Airport (185 km) in Delhi. The nearest railway station is Jaipur Railway Station (40 km).