Having spent a sizeable amount of time in Kolkata in my early working years, I was lucky to have experienced the fervour and heady festivities during Durga Puja on more than one occasion. It wowed me, to put it mildly. Wherever I’d go—from RashBehari Avenue’s bazaars to Kaalighat’s temples and Behala’s decrepit baaris—the air would be filled with incense, faint sounds emanating from the blowing of conch shells and an all-pervasive excitement that would up the tempo and pace in the otherwise comparatively slower-paced metropolis. At some of the evening pujas that I was able to attend after much navigation, courtesy my local friends, the vibe of those divine moments was simply electric. The pandal [pronounced ‘pan-del’]—hopping would be like trips to some sort of desi Disneyland, with all kinds of uber-cool themes, timely, inspired or outrageously extravagant. The artisans at work, who would bring gigantic mini-cities to life, had to be commended for their craftsmanship. Over time, I came to understand and realise how and why Durga Puja is such an integral part of the city’s essence. And now, with UNESCO’s recognition of this festival on its Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage [ICH] of Humanity, the underlining of this annual phenomenon makes it sweeter, even for an out-of-towner like me.  

Ever since I can recall, the Ganesh festival has been part of our way of life. Growing up in a largely Maharashtrian locality helped me understand why the festival is as, if not more important, than Diwali in most households. It is a state of mind for most residents of this city. The build-up, the prep in each home and then, once the actual ten-day festival begins, the city springs into another mode altogether. Visiting mandals at a time when it wasn’t a behind-the-curtains affair would be the most exciting routine to look forward to with friends. When heritage and history began to take precedence in my life, and by default, work, I learnt a lot more about the deep-set relevance of Ganeshotsav in the city during colonial rule.