From clock towers to Art Deco gems, Byculla has some architectural muscles to flex. A walking trail here is for those who love their Sunday strolls with a side of design history
The entrance of Rani Baug itself is a place to pause and admire, for its columns and detailing in a nod to Renaissance style. Pic/Ashish Raje
Byculla’s streets usually see groups seeking a history fix on Sundays, and with reason. This neighbourhood has its own charm, which you will find hidden behind its bustling traffic. This trail is short enough to fit into a lazy Sunday and packed enough to give you a satisfying culture fix.
Grand entrance
Start your walk at the obvious, Rani Baug. Before you even step into the zoo and botanical garden, pause at the main entrance of Rani Baug (also known as Veermata Jijabai Bhosale Udyan). The gate is a nod to Italianate and Renaissance architectural styles, complete with stone columns, arched windows, and an old-world charm that predates most of the city’s buildings. Built in the 1860s, the structure is a reminder of when civic architecture meant grandeur. Even if you’re not to the zoo, it’s worth lingering here to admire the craftsmanship. Don’t miss the clock tower, with its hands stuck at 3.30. Erected in 1864, it’s covered in tiles with geometrical prints. The tower was restored in 2019 and showcases Italian-style architecture, quite different from the rest of Mumbai, which wears a Gothic style.
Museum of crafts
Pic/Atul Kamble
In the same compound is the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum, a high point in Indo-Saracenic architecture. Built in 1872, it’s the oldest museum in Mumbai and an underrated stunner. After two years of restoration, it reopened to the public a few months ago.
From Minton-tiled floors and wrought-iron railings to the pastel-hued ceiling and Corinthian columns, the building is a visual feast. The museum’s collection showcases decorative arts made with a host of materials — clay, brass, marble, textiles, among others — which showcase the handiworks of artisans who once conducted business in the city.
Marble marvel
Pic/iStock
End your walk with a bit of jaw-drop. Hasnabad Dargah is often dubbed “Mumbai’s mini Taj Mahal.” Built in the late 1800s, this is the resting place of Shah Hasan Ali Shah, the first Aga Khan, who came to India from Iran. The Dargah features white and blue stone, Mughal-inspired arches, two slender minarets, and a central dome that turns magical at dusk when the monument is softly lit. Design details include intricate jalis, floral engravings, and finely carved marble.
1864
Year in which the Rani Baug clock tower was erected
1872
The Bhau Daji Lad Museum was built in this year
Byculla’s residential beauties
You would think Marine Drive cornered the Art Deco market, but Byculla has its secret stash — three architectural gems that will delight design nerds. You don’t need to get in to enjoy these buildings; a slow walk and an eye for detail is all you need.
Ebrahim Mansion: Bold geometric patterns, metal grille, speedlines, and its nameplate — all classic Deco motifs that fit right into Mumbai’s style.
WHERE: Next to Saboo Siddique College, Nagpada, Byculla
Noman Villa: The clean lines, symmetry, and stepped patterns of early Deco architecture. Think: corner balconies and eyebrows, complete with a nameplate typical of those times.
WHERE: 8, Shepherd Rd, Police Colony, New Nagpada, Byculla
Fine Palace: This one’s the showstopper. With sunburst grills, tropical imagery, and the occasional sea wave motif, it’s a fine example of how Art Deco blended international style with local themes.
WHERE: Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy Rd, New Nagpada, Byculla
Pic Courtesy/Art Deco Mumbai
Getting there and around
Start your walk around 9 am to beat the heat. All spots are within 1.5 to 2 km from each other and are best explored on foot. You can begin at Byculla Station (East) and end near Clare Road or Nesbit Road, where the dargah is located.
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