After 75 hours of tattooing, celeb hairstylist Sapna Bhavnani

Commonly known as the Indus, the river Sindhu flows through the city of Shikarpur, and there was once a time, before the Partition, when the Sindhis were cradled in its ebb and flow. In this desert town, in the Sindh province of Pakistan, a full river was enjoyed annually by them, as they swam and savoured mangoes on its banks. The scene unfolds itself in front of us but not in any archival photograph, art house film or famed painting. Instead, we are staring at, and gingerly tracing, the designs on Sapna Bhavnani's thigh.