Everyone's heard of Rogan Josh and Phirni. But how can Kashmir known as heaven on earth ufffd have just two great food preparations, we wondered. So TEAM SMD went in search of Kashmiri food in Mumbai. Our weeklong quest led us to seven eateries that satisfied our gastronomical juices. Tasting everything from mouth-watering starters to delicious desserts, we also learnt about the differences within the valley's cuisine, how to temper the spicy stuff and marinate meat
Neel, tote on the turf
Mahalaxmi Race Course
What: Chilgozhe ka Shorba: A lightly spiced pine nut soup.
Taste: The soup, considered a rich man’s food in Kashmir, is absolutely delicious. The roasted pine nuts, blended with some pumpkin, are spiced perfectly. Just a tiny bit of the black cardamom pops up happily to say hello with each sip. Our only complaint — the cup it is served in is too small.
Price: Rs 285
SMD score:u00a0****
What: Gucchi Dum Biryani
Gucchi mushrooms are the star in this biryani, made in the typical dum-style.
Taste: You can’t get more Kashmiri than having gucchi in your Dum Biryani. The hills in the northern state are one of the few places in the world where Gucchi mushrooms, or morels, are grown. The Dum Biryani needs only a tiny bit of the mushrooms to lend it the desired flavour. Jacketed under a sheet of dough, this biryani is marked with a sprinkle of pepper pods to set it apart from its mutton cousin. While the subtle flavours of the biryani are near faultless, they are not entirely unfamiliar.
Price: Rs 885
SMD score:u00a0***
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Poush
Cuffe Parade
What: Kabargah/Kabargarch
Mutton ribs stewed with herbs, marinated in curd and stir fried.
Taste: The chef tells us the preparation calls for simmering the meat in saffron milk for 48 hours with mild spices and herbs. No wonder. Soft and tender, spiced to perfection, this is a dream start to any Kashmiri non-vegetarian meal.
Price: Rs 320
SMD score:u00a0*****
Wazwan
Andheri (East)
What: Kashmiri Dum Aloo
Deep fried potatoes in a thick creamy gravy.
Taste: The potatoes are tender and comes in a thick gravy which has a generous amount of pepper, garlic and red chillies. Spicy but not over the top, this is best paired with steamed rice or naan.
Price: Rs 80
SMD score:u00a0***
Contact: 66770017, 66941144
Kongpoush
Goregaon
On the move
One of Mumbai’s most popular Kashmiri restaurants, Oshiwara-based KongPoush, is in the process of relocating. In the meantime, one can find their delicious offerings at food festivals at eateries across the city. In June, Hotel Grand Sarovar in Goregaon (West) and later Hotel Westin (Goregaon, off the WEH) will play host to KongPoush’s Kashmiri treats.
Log onto: www.facebook.com/ kongpoush.kashmiricuisine
Poush- Essence Of Kashmir
Oberoi Complex, Off New Link Road, Andheri (W)
What: Kakur Kanti
Boneless chicken pieces marinated in Kashmiri herbs and tossed in tomato and onion.
Taste: The chicken is tender and is perfectly cooked. It’s neither too dry nor too runny. It is served with a spread of tomatoes and onions that makes a great start to a Kashmiri meal.
Price: Rs 230
SMD score:u00a0*****
What: Phirni
Semolina or rawa cooked in milk with cashew, pistachio and saffron
Taste: Served in an earthen pot, it is creamy with a delicate flavour of saffron and cardamom. Our only gripe, the quantity is too less for a single serving.
Price: R80
SMD score:u00a0****
Maya, The Trident
BKC
What: Munjaal Haak
Munjaal Haak is the Kashmiri equivalent of the term ‘greens’ or the Hindi ‘saag’.
Taste: Don’t get fooled by the simple explanation above. This spinach tempered in mustard oil with clove and hing and cooked in curd is awesome. Honestly, we haven’t tasted something so simple yet so yummy, before. It’s great.
SMD score:u00a0****
Price: On request
What: Rogan Josh
This meat dish is perhaps the best known Kashmiri food item. Rogan means oil in Persian, while josh means heat or passionate. Rogan josh thus means cooked in oil at intense heat.
Taste: We were a bit scared at the sight of so much oil in the gravy, but the chef assured us this was normal. This one’s spicy and not for those who don’t like their chillies hot. We tempered it with the Munjaal Haak, mixed it all together in rice as advised by the chef and the result was satisfying.
Price: Rs 875
SMD score:u00a0***
Hornby’s Pavilion
ITC Grand Central, Parel
What: Nainey Yakhenie
This is a lamb dish cooked in yoghurt in Kashmiri style.
Taste: Marinated for a day in yoghurt and salt, you can literally feel the meat melt in your mouth. Pair this thick gravy dish with jeera rice or a roti. This is not spicy at all, contrary to the popular belief about most Kashmiri non-veg items being extremely spicy and hot.
Price: On request
SMD score:u00a0****
What: Choonthe Aloo Pakore (Green Apple and potato pakoda)
Looks like a potato pakoda but surprises you with the green apple twist.
Taste: Have it with or without the dip as you sip a cocktail. The slight sweetness of the green apple combined with the familiar aloo pakoda taste makes this a great starter.
Price: On request
SMD score: ***u00a0
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