Capital flavour, Mumbai vibe

Andhra Gongura Chicken, Crispy Murukku, (Right) Nimbu Masala Avocado, Banarasi Aloo Papad

A few weeks ago, in Delhi, we were walking through the lush lawns of the India Habitat Centre when we overheard a woman on the phone, slightly flustered. Thanks to the previous night's thunderstorm, her Comorin lunch plans had been cancelled.

Everyone we know in the capital city loves Comorin. Launched in 2018 and named in reference to Cape Comorin (Kanyakumari), the restaurant celebrates familiar Indian flavours thoughtfully reimagined with finesse - an experience worthy of Indian Accent's sister restaurant. (EHV International, owns and runs both brands, among others including Chor Bizzare, Hosa and Fireback). Comorin, Gurugram, has been awarded the ‘Best Restaurant Bar in India' at the 30 Best Bars India awards for four consecutive years and has been voted amongst the top 10 restaurants in India over the last three years at the FoodFood Awards.

The name made us smile - we had a reservation there the next day and had been looking forward to it since we sampled their pop-up lunch at Jolie's in Mumbai two years ago. It offered a sneak peek into what makes Comorin special: regional Indian plates that feel nostalgic and new alongside inventive sous vide cocktails. Their Champaran mutton and gucchi pulao still linger in memory.

In Gurugram, the Sweet Corn Khichdi, Sem ka Beej, and Khakra had our hearts. Who would think that a khichdi of any kind could occupy a place of pride at a restaurant of this level? "Comorin being called a modern Indian restaurant is a misnomer; we are a restaurant that serves regional comfort food that's approachable," says Rohit Khattar, Founder of EHV International. The Lemon Gun Powder Idli. Golden Cashews will remain our staple here. Also, very few chefs can make a mean haleem - topped with crispy onion and served with bakarkhani, which is silky and soulful.

Kashmiri Gucchi Pulao, Saffron Raita

The Tawa Crab Anda Bhurji, Chilli Butter Toast, Green Chilli Prawns; Champaran Mutton, Sattu Parantha, Ole Ki Chutney and Badam Kathal Ki Nihari, Moti Roti are the stuff of every non-vegetarian food lovers' dreams. We couldn't resist ordering the Pao Bhaji, served with one of the best pav rolls - small and pillowy, smeared with butter. We ended the meal with cheeni malai toast, honeycomb, salted chikki kulfi, chocolate, and Monaco crumble. What truly sets this restaurant apart is the warmth and wisdom with which brand chef Dhiraj Dargan crafts each dish - the spices are perfectly balanced, the flavours bold yet familiar, and somehow, even the most indulgent plates feel light and comforting.

Cut to last week, and Sunday mid-day, was invited for a meal tasting ahead of Comorin's Mumbai launch at Nilaya Anthology, a luxury design destination in Lower Parel. The brand was originally conceived by company director Rishiv Khattar (Rohit's son), with interiors by London's acclaimed Russell Sage Studio. For its Mumbai outpost, the team reunited to craft a space that evolves with the day - offering a seamless transition from casual daytime dining to a vibrant late-night experience.

Nashik Spritz and CaSsatta

The architectural layout, executed by Incubis Consultants under overall design guidance of Design Director, Rashmi Khattar (who has presided over the creation of each restaurant for the group), flows into a sun-dappled orangery at Nilaya, creating a striking al fresco extension rarely seen in the city, one that is destined to be a stunning new venue for gatherings. The space is a tactile journey through India's rich material palette - wood, metal, hand-crafted tiles, and soft fabrics are layered with care, creating distinct moods across zones - from an open, inviting bar with bold design gestures to a more intimate inner sanctum tucked away at the back. Whether grabbing a quiet coffee or meeting friends for dinner, everything - from the warm lighting to the subtle textures - invites you to settle in and stay awhile.

Aam Ki Kadhi, Khoba Roti

We met Dargan again. Calm and entirely in his element, he introduces us to the Mumbai addition to the menu. We start with the Nimbu Masala Avocado, Banarasi Aloo Papad. It is a cross-cultural conversation on a plate - creamy avocado gets a zesty jolt from nimbu masala layered over a crisp, salty, Banarasi-style aloo papad.. The Andhra Gongura Chicken with Crispy Murukku is a fiery celebration of Andhra's beloved sorrel leaf. The leaf lends the chicken a tangy punch, with sour and spicy notes that linger, while the crunchy murukku adds texture and nostalgia.

Aam Ki Kadhi with Khoba Roti, Bhakarwadi, feels like summer on a plate. The ripe mango brings the right amount of sweet and tart to the yoghurt kadhi, while the khoya roti - a beautifully hand-pressed Rajasthani flatbread - soaks it up with chewy charm. And then came the Kashmiri Gucchi Pulao with Saffron Raita - a fragrant and decadent dish that felt like a warm embrace. Packed with prized morels and mellowed by the floral notes of saffron, this pulao is elegant, earthy, and luxurious without the weight.

Chef Dhiraj Dargan and Rohit Khattar

We washed it all down with house-made sodas (Rose and bergamot and Nimbu Chilli Lemongrass) from Comorin's signature sous vide infusion counter, thoughtfully crafted by EHV International's Head of Bars, Mixologist Varun Sharma. Expect cocktails on tap and a playful, inventive drinks menu with standouts like the Neer More, Walnut Sour, Fennel Paloma, and Mango and Fig Highball. If you're in the mood for something a little more polished, there's also a range of batch-bottled cocktails like the Khus Vermouth Negroni, Coffee Manhattan, Gibson, and Smoke & Agave Martini. We met Sharma in Gurugram, where his depth of knowledge and storytelling left a lasting impression. If you find him at the restaurant, take a moment to chat - you're in for a delightful dose of insight and anecdotes.

For wine lovers, Head of Wines Kevin Rodrigues has created an accessible glass-by-glass wine programme that encourages the discovery of over 50 carefully selected wines without the pressure of a full bottle. In its extremely contemporary setting, Comorin Mumbai does not exude a sense of fine dining that feels distant, nor is it far too casual - it's that rare middle path where a humble khichdi can sit proudly alongside a gin cocktail infused with curry leaves, and both feel perfectly at home. With its launch in Mumbai, it feels like the city will finally catch up with a conversation that Delhi has been leading - about how Indian food can be deeply comforting yet modern, layered, and inventive without losing its soul.