27 July,2025 11:45 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
Manish Mehrotra and Raymond Wong; (right) Chocolate Sphere
For an upcoming dinner in the city, something quietly powerful is brewing. Not a fusion, but a conversation, not a clash, but a cadence, where instinct meets precision and silk meets spice, where Chef Manish Mehrotra - one of India's most celebrated culinary visionaries known for reimagining Indian cuisine with global technique - will step into the kitchen with Chef Raymond Wong - the calm force behind Hakkasan, Mumbai's modern Cantonese evolution. Together, through gestures, glances, and shared rhythm, they will compose a seven-course experience at Hakkasan, Bandra that will be more than the sum of its parts , where each plate will carry a pause, a thought, a story.
It begins with Pearl of the Orient - crisp lotus root topped with creamy cheese and Thai herbs - followed by the Cantonese Spiced Sphere, rich, warm, and wok-kissed. The menu then moves into mains that build on the chefs' shared approach and contrasting styles. Mehrotra's XO Butter Rice delivers on comfort and umami, offering a rich and satisfying experience. In contrast, Chef Wong's Imperial Seafood Truffle is lighter but equally refined, made with premium ingredients like morel mushrooms, crab, and truffle, while staying true to the clean, balanced flavours of Cantonese cooking.
"I wanted to combine premium ingredients to create a dish that has layers and yet retains the soul of Cantonese cuisine," says Wong, "Cantonese cooking is all about freshness, original flavour and cooking time. I used mild seasoning and slow-cooked it at a low temperature, allowing the ingredients to mingle rather than compete. This approach preserves fragrance, honours technique, and allows guests to taste the exquisite meeting of Chinese and Western sensibilities in one bite - a traditional Cantonese cuisine with a modern interpretation."
"Cantonese cuisine is one of the more approachable Chinese styles globally," says Mehrotra. "It's clean, focused on freshness, with less complexity than some of the other regional styles." He points to the influence of Hong Kong and Macau, regions shaped by their colonial past. "There's a clear Western imprint - yum cha in Hong Kong, for instance, reflects that British high-tea culture in its own way. Even after the British left in '97, that sensibility stayed on."
This menu also marks Mehrotra's return to pan-Asian cooking after 15 years. Known primarily for redefining modern Indian cuisine at Indian Accent, he admits this was an unexpected detour. "When Hakkasan reached out, I was surprised. I'm seen as an Indian chef. But that's what made this interesting - it was different from what I've been doing, and it felt like the right challenge."
The collaboration gave him space to revisit flavours and techniques from earlier in his career, while bringing in his current lens. "There's a Tibetan-Nepalese influence in one dish, and while nothing is overtly Indian, there are familiar notes. That balance was important - recognisable, but not rooted in Indian cuisine."
Desserts, he admits, were where they had to get creative. "Pan-Asian desserts can be tricky - they're often an acquired taste. So we played with texture, added things like pistachio, chocolate⦠something reminiscent of kunafa. A bit of trend, a bit of comfort."
For his courses, Mehrotra steers away from the usual. "Chicken bores me," he says, matter-of-factly. "Wong has focused on seafood - crab, prawn, lobster - but there is a seafood rice dish that's very much mine." There's also a standout lamb dish, subtly layered with coconut and mustard. "It's not Indian, but the cooking style is familiar. That's the point." This collaboration, for him, isn't about nostalgia - it's about re-entering a space with a new perspective. "I've evolved as a chef, and this menu reflects that. It's not trying too hard. It just holds its own."
"What surprises me most about the Indian palate," shares Chef Wong, "is the incredible diversity and openness to bold flavours. Yes, there's a love for spice and crunch, but what stands out is the curiosity and the demand for depth. It challenges me, as a Cantonese chef, to push the boundaries of creativity while still honouring the clarity and calm of my cuisine. That's when cultural exchange becomes transformative."
Wong says, "Manish's dishes bring great energy to the table, and I truly admire his creativity," adding, "but Cantonese cuisine values restraint, balance and elegance. My approach was to let the purity of ingredients and precision of technique speak. Side by side, our aesthetics created a beautiful contrast - one bold and expressive, the other subtle and nuanced - both harmonising to create a layered and memorable dining experience."
Of course, Mumbai itself plays a role in this narrative - the city's pulse, its appetite for flavour and flair, its openness to reinvention. "Cooking Cantonese cuisine in Mumbai has its unique rhythm," says Wong. "The city is vibrant, fast-paced, and full of character - that energy influences my planning. While I stay true to the principles of freshness and balance, I allow the local vibe to inspire more dynamic, playful elements. The rhythm of Mumbai pushes me to adapt without losing authenticity - it's like letting Cantonese cuisine speak in the city's bold, expressive language."
And when asked about a dish as unexpected as a Cantonese lamb shank draped in a mustardy Thai-Indian sauce, he laughs, "I think my ancestors would raise an eyebrow - and then ask for seconds! Yes, it's bold and unexpected, but once they taste the harmony and technique behind it, I believe they'd appreciate the creativity. Cantonese cooking has always evolved with time and place - this is just the next delicious chapter."
What: When India Met Canton: Silk & Spice
When: August 1 to 3, 2025, 8 PM and 10 PM slots
Where: Hakkasan, Krystal Building, Waterfield Road, Bandra West
Launch Price: Rs 7,500 (exclusive of cocktails)
To book: 8355877777
