26 April,2026 08:53 AM IST | Mumbai | Dhara Vora Sabhnani
Tarun Tahiliani
Premium international brands are accessible to Indians who travel abroad and are living in our metros today. Indian couture designers are not ones to leave the market untouched, and are specially focusing on their ready-to-wear pret collections. Like Tarun Tahiliani, known for his exquisitely embroidered lehengas and saris. This month, the designer's attention is on his luxury pret brand - OTT.
Earlier restricted to just a rack in his massive Ballard Estate store, Tahiliani has now opened an OTT store at Phoenix Palladium, Lower Parel. The designer discusses Gen Z's shopping behaviour, and how an underwear-banian brand sealed the fate of his brand's name.
How do you create affordable pieces while keeping the brand's aesthetic alive?
It's Indian but contemporary global, and every separate piece stands out. Everything can be paired any which way you want. In addition to the India Modern style, it allows great versatility. People value having things that are different, but not insane. Within India, everyone's wearing a lot more Western silhouettes, and things made by the West. So they feel Indian but you can do what you want with it, it's very contemporary and global. OTT is not just about Indian crafts. We have also done a beautiful collaboration with [artist] Ram Kumar for jackets. We have another collaboration with the [artists] Singh Twins coming up. In addition to contemporary Indian art, OTT also uses structured drapes. A dhoti pant which can be paired with a bomber jacket to a chikankari coat is unlikely to be done by Western designers. It's a modern take on everything India.
My biggest irony about OTT is it's not over the top. It's very non-OTT. But unfortunately, because there is a company called TT underwear and banian, we couldn't use my initials as the logo. It's almost like a paradox, because this is about beautiful luxury pret, and silhouettes and shapes. I think that's very funny, it's almost like an oxymoron.
How would you define Gen Z shopping behaviour?
I'm still trying to figure it out. They pretty much pre-shop on the phone. There's also so much sensory overload. They are used to shopping a little differently. They seem to be much more casual and anything goes with anything. So, it's rather momentous when they actually dress up. They do come to the physical stores, particularly if they are shopping for a special occasion, everyone wants to try and see things. Normally, you start buying online after you have tried if the fit works on your body. If buying a similar pattern in different print or colour, you may not feel the need to come in. Unless they run into things in [a space such as] Dhan Mill [Delhi] or a mall, a lot of research is done online.
Are they choosing your clothes for Insta moments or longevity?
Many are beginning to shop quite responsibly, so they're not buying fast fashion and are repeating pieces.
They want to make sure that they do their bit for the planet. I think a lot of them are actually much simpler compared to their mothers or grandmothers. Women in India always had a certain way of putting themselves together. Gen Z is very casual in comparison.
Luxury always survives on being aspirational, what is aspirational for them?
When a brand has some legacy, and is associated with some value and high glamour - whatever that means to you - it does become aspirational.
When you become a brand, you have to promise quality. So, that quality assures multiple uses into the future.
Do you feel the Indian customer is finally ready to invest in Indian pret?
We all travel now. They know that anything abroad is worth thousands of dollars. Indian pret is designed in fabrics good for Indian climate. And the colours we do are well-suited to Indian women.
What has changed in Indian fashion in the last five years?
It's become much more serious. I think there was a very good run post COVID. I think Indians are spending on true luxury now.
One trend that you hope disappears in 2026?
The overuse of very thin stretch fabrics everywhere that fit too close to the body.
OTT in three words
Contemporary Indian fashion. Not OTT [laughs].
Style advice for every woman?
Be true to themselves. You can't look at a thousand images and think you're going to look like everybody else.
A colour you're obsessed with right now?
I always have shades of ecru and beige. I love, love, love it on Indian skin. In crafts, I love chikankari and kashida.
Fashion rules that you love breaking?
India is all about breaking fashion rules. We don't have to follow the Western rules for our fashion.
Books you are reading right now?
The Second Mountain by David Brooks. And I just got Arundhati's [Roy] new book.
