Thai food gets a chic, contemporary take at a soon-to-open restaurant
Mango Tree lobster phad Thai Pics/Datta Kumbhar
We've recently returned from a trip to Thailand, where we encountered the stinky-but-delicious durian fruit, cooked Thai curries and chose sticky rice over basmati. So, when we heard that Mango Tree, a Thai-inspired chain that opened in Bangkok 24 years ago, was setting up its first India outpost in Juhu, we head there for a peek before it opens its doors on March 23. A gold and dark-wood hemispheric bar welcomes us, opening into a 120-seater restaurant spread across 3,500 sq ft. Every napkin holds a dried Thai chilli.
Larb gai. Pics/Datta Kumbhar
We start with a lychee and watermelon (Rs350) drink, garnished with fruity pieces that we chomp on as the sorbet melts. The amuse-bouche for the day is larb gai, minced chicken sautéed in shallots, dry chilli with a squeeze of lime. It transports us to the street food stalls in Bangkok.
Pad cha radish cake
Next we try pomelo and rosemary tini (Rs550) — a beautiful balance of tangy pomelo, bitter triple sec and rosemary with orange vodka caviar that bursts in the mouth. For starters, the paneer satay (Rs500), a replica of yellow paneer tikka masala, is served with a tasteless, oily peanut sauce. The pomelo salad with grilled scallop (Rs1,200) is a balance of textures with the crunchy peanuts, shallots, Thai chilli and coconut flakes.
Crab in yellow curry
The pad cha radish cake (khanom phak gad phad cha, Rs400), pan-grilled radish cakes topped with a finger root ginger sauce begins our real Thai sojourn with its pungent and peppery fireworks. The curries are sourced from a central kitchen in Thailand that supplies to its branches worldwide. The massaman curry lamb shanks (Rs1,600) is a well-cooked, nutty gravy with potato, chickpeas, onion and cashew nut. The crab in yellow curry (poo phad phong karee, Rs1,800) comes with a whole stir-fried mud crab and crab meat. The curry is fluffy thanks to the scrambled egg. Spiced with curry powder sauce and chilli oil, it is a mild, comforting curry and goes well with Jasmine Rice (Rs200).
Pomelo and rosemary tini
We sign off the mains with pad thai; we try the scampi as well as the lobster. Both are served with an egg yolk omelette, bean sprout, chives and tofu. It has a perfectly controlled hint of tamarind, with the overriding aromas of the sea.
For dessert, we have the traditional Mango Sticky Rice (khao niew mamuang, Rs400) that is dressed in a contemporary fashion, complete with purple edible flowers and a drizzle of coconut syrup.Mango Tree wraps traditional Thai food in a fine-dine presentation at a heavy price tag. It's all good as long as they retain that Thai flavour punch.
Time 12pm to 3.30pm; 7pm to 12.30pm
At Mango Tree, Horizon Hotel, Juhu.
Call 8655551277
Also read: Mumbai Food: Now, a specialty Thai restaurant with a twist
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