When clothes are better than great, they actually sing to you. David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore's two-decade long career, that began even before India lost its virginity to the cyclic rounds of fashion weeks, was cemented on a steadfast resolution not to parade their clothes at ramp shows
We loved
Abraham & Thakore
At: 7 pm
When clothes are better than great, they actually sing to you. David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore's two-decade long career, that began even before India lost its virginity to the cyclic rounds of fashion weeks, was cemented on a steadfast resolution not to parade their clothes at ramp shows. But that was one sticky vow everyone hoped would be broken. And it did on March 27, when A&T made their ramp debut.
A stickler for perfection, Rakesh had conspired to start the show on time. That it began only 15 minutes late is a monumental feat, and on the cue of a loud gong. It wasn't about a supreme theme or look, but a simple free-spirited journey through the dusty villages and shiny metros of India; clothes with texture and soul. Model Bhawna Sharma's Jamdani silk sari worn with an appliquu00e9 and silk choli, was draped the way a working middle-class woman would, when she wants to get work done. Motifs like umbrellas, rickshaws, lotuses, chappals, hands folded in namaste and cycles, all commonly associated with homely hamlets, claimed space on an appliquu00e9 kurta, wool coat and sari pallu.
Outlining the silhouette but never at the risk of choking it, the intricate surface texturing on seemingly simple outfits played with eyelets on the edges of a deconstructed kurta. Other pieces saw zippers take charge. Working with what's traditional, to make a subtle statement has become second nature to the A&T brand, with the designers working with local crafts people from Andhra Pradesh. Mixed yarn from Maheshwar and tie and dye from Bhuj are regulars. Each of these elements manifested itself dramatically on this collection, making the Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 line ethereally hip.
Trust the two to defy convention. They ended their show with not one, but two showstoppers -- models Indrani Das Gupta and Carol Gracias -- one draped in a silk Ikat sari teamed with a ploy-laminate kurta-choli with woven khadi sleeves, and the other in a silk Ikat sari with a quilted vest-choli. The burnt orange on Indrani's sari pallu and turmeric stole wrapped underneath the quilted vest worn by Carol, added spark to an already fired-up collection.
The mojri-inspired wedges are stuff dreams are made of.
Designwear under 8k
Sonam Dubal
At: 1.50 pm
"Effortless and chic without losing an arm and a leg," is how one of Kolkata's leading designers describes her collection, Chiconomics. She may as well have included "mind" in the statement, considering the migraine attack that is sure to set on with the prices one grapples with at designer stores. 
Kiran simplified her past couture week collections to present a line-up that claims to cost between Rs 2,000 and Rs 8,000. That's good enough news to make you jump on your couch ala Tom Cruise on the Oprah Winfrey show. Comfortable chic designerwear at affordable prices is tough to come by.
Shapes defied measured volume, oscillating between long, straight and cocoon, without the fuss of jarring embellishments and tedious drapes. The soothing colour story included shades of ivory, mustard, olive, indigo, wine, taupe and mocca, complimenting the metal thread, sequin sheeting and antique gold embroidery.
The 30-garment line-up moved forward on simply structured silhouettes; quirky details like seam inserts, tassels, cowls, concave hems, wraps and hoods brought novelty to the designs.
Straight jacketed
Sonam Dubal
At: 1.50 pm
He is a happy man. In a room full of frowns, a wide smile that engulfs the atmosphere around him is unmistakably Sonam Dubal. The Sikkimese designer graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology two decades ago, and juggled various jobs before turning into a full-time working designer. Just like his relaxed demeanour, his clothes have been steadfastly inspired by the achingly stunning landscape of where he comes from. His designs walk tall on the strength of Tsen fabric, a traditional hand-woven Tibetan textile from Assam. His other favourites: silk, velvet, Chanderi and brocade. 
Routes to Roots, a line he showcased at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week on Saturday, had beguiling Pan-Asian silhouettes make love to surface textures. The leitmotif of the collection is your irreplaceable travel mate -- the jacket -- with Sonam taking the piece of clothing from day to evening by elongating its length, embellishing it and teaming it with competent wrap and sequin dresses.
Ikat made a frequent appearance on stoles and wraps, while block prints and hand painting said hello to us, like always. The modernity of geometrics combined with the ancient paisley motif celebrated a joyous colour palette of reds, navy blue, gold and silver.
Tinu ko gussa kyon aata hai?
On Saturday, the editorial team behind WIFW's daily magazine Designer Mode Dailies had to face the fury of Mumbai model Tinu Verghese, when she stormed into their office at the media centre and demanded to know why they had published a picture of her walking the ramp, in which her "crotch is visible". "I look tacky in this picture. Do you know how to select the right picture?" she asked. 
To this Parineeta Sethi of Designer Mode Dailies said, "What has happened has happened. We can't do anything about what has been published."
What is interesting is that on previous occasions, like at Manish Malhotra's show, Tinu has worn far more revealing outfits, including a swimsuit. We wonder what the fuss is about when in the mag picture all we can see if a slice of the white shorts Tinu was wearing under the tunic.
The picture that left Tinu fuming was of her walking the ramp for Vineet Bahl's show held on Friday afternoon.
When we later bumped into Tinu relaxing at a lounge at the venue, she said, "Such pictures are published either because the publisher has no sense of fashion or to embarrass the model. I don't know why they had to publish the picture. If they want to sensationalise, why don't they keep a separate box on 'tacky dressing'? On television, it still works but in a magazine that you call 'Designer Mode', it's not done. I have demanded a written apology from the organisers of the show. They can't f*** up like this?"
Standing tall: Actress Deepika Padukone walked the ramp for Delhi designer Namrata Joshipura's show wearing a sequinned sheath dress. Pics/Subhash Barolia
Media heroine ke peeche bhaagi
This fashion week is one of never-ending entertainment, some of it unintended. On Saturday, it was the launch of the book, Contemporary Indian Fashion by Italian publishing house Damiani, and strangely, neither the media nor designers turned up in numbers. The book features 24 Indian designers including Manish Arora, Gaurav Gupta, Namrata Joshipura, Nimita Rathod, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Ranna Gill, My Village and Sabyasachi Mukherjee. Gaurav Gupta was the only known name present.
After the launch, when the editor of the publishing house, Enrico Costanza and the designers inquired about the low attendance, Sunil Sethi, president FDCI said, "Actually ramp pe ek heroine aayi hai, jiski wajah se saara media wahin hai. Don't worry we have planned a big gathering." How were we privy to this information? Because the 'president' forgot to switch off the microphone he was holding.
Today's line-up
>Ashima Singh. Kartikey & Isha.u00a0 Pratima Pandey. Shreya & Nirali. Smriti. Taniya Khanuja
>Ekta & Ruchira. Hemant & Nandita. Khushali Kumar
>Anupamaa Dayal. Nandita Mahtani
>Rabani & Rakha. Siddartha Tytler
>Rishta by Arjun. Prashant Verma
>Nandita Basu
>Varun Sardana
>Rajesh Pratap Singh
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