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Seasonal Seafood: How Mumbai’s Kolis relish dried fish on rainy days

The city’s fisherfolk adapt their cuisine when the monsoon makes seas too rough to navigate. The community’s seasonal delicacies mainly feature fish that were sun-dried and stored in the summer, and some of the tiny catch available closer to shore

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Bombay Duck (bombil) being dried during the summer in Versova Koliwada. Photo: Mohit Ramle

Bombay Duck (bombil) being dried during the summer in Versova Koliwada. Photo: Mohit Ramle

The Kolis have faced many adversities in the last one year but the one aspect of their lives, which Mumbai’s resilient fishing community doesn’t compromise on, is food. “Every member, from children to old people in our community across the city, is a lover of fish. We eat them twice a day without fail and cannot do without it. Every meal is literally a feast for us as it has at least two to four dishes,” says Manoj Koli, a resident of the Khar Danda fishing village near Bandra. 

Though they have been celebrating the gift of life with food, Covid-19 did upend their routines. Just as it took away the source of livelihood for many on land last year, the pandemic also managed to do that for the Kolis who depend on the sea for their income. They had fewer months to go out in the water and sales were lacklustre. “We didn’t enter the sea earlier, then the lockdown posed different kinds of challenges. Even if we had the catch, we did not make sale because of the restriction in market timings,” explains Harsha Tapke, from the Versova koliwada fishing community, who has been selling the fish in the market for a long time. 

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